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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I guess that is the correct term. I noticed it at the range last Saturday and tonight while cleaning and dry firing (with snap caps). Around about the 25th trigger pull (DA or SA) the hammer catches on something and will not go back all the way, the cylinder does not cycle. I release the trigger and try again and everything works. The gun is New Blemished from KY Gun Co. I hope it's just something that will go away with use. I will probably call Taurus Cust Serv. tomorrow and discuss. Anybody on this site had that issue with their 65 or any other Taurus revolver.

Thanks!

 

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I see you have a thread open about cleaning a revolver.....thats the first thing I would do, then take it back to the range and try it out again. After a really good cleaning, my model 66 worked like a champ. It had displayed some of the symptoms you describe, and if you follow SilverString's detail on where to lube and how much to use, I think you'll have a much more pleasant experience.
 

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It happens with all my revolvers at one time or another. I pull the side plate and clean, loob every revolver before it ever gets a round loaded in it. I've had 100 year old Colts and S&W that failed to function in the same manner as your 65. A good cleaning and reloobing and we were good to go. Taurus revolvers are very easy to open, inspect, clean, loob. i do it to all, new or used. Good shooting!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It happens with all my revolvers at one time or another. I pull the side plate and clean, loob every revolver before it ever gets a round loaded in it. I've had 100 year old Colts and S&W that failed to function in the same manner as your 65. A good cleaning and reloobing and we were good to go. Taurus revolvers are very easy to open, inspect, clean, loob. i do it to all, new or used. Good shooting!!!
Awesome, thanks Guesser!
 

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I wasn't sure if you were willing to take the revolver apart or not when I gave you the cleaning steps. There is a decent post on how to take the side plate off and get to the internals in the Taurus revolver forum: http://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/t...rus-revolver-disassembly-pictorial-guide.html. However it depends on how much patience you have or skill level working with small parts. One thing I always do when working on a revolver I haven't been exposed to previously, is take pictures at each stage of the disassembly. That way you can go back and see how the part fitted.
Unless you are experienced please do not change any springs or polish/stone the sear , just clean and lube the internals. Changing spring weights and size or polishing sear surfaces can have serious drawbacks from making the revolver unreliable to getting in trouble with the law if you use it in a self defense shooting. Also too light of springs or an over-polished sear can lead to range accidents, because the hammer drops before you are on target or an unexperienced shooter waves the muzzle around and it fires. One last thing I do gunsmith work on lots of revolvers and live in far NW Arkansas. Not sure where you are located , but I offer free labor to TA members , LEO , and friends. I am not a FFL, so can't ship to me directly, but if not too far away. You can drop by and stay a night or two, heck you can even shoot at my ranges. Offer open to all TA members. Oh and if you come by this weekend you could help me finish my new steel range, and help replace those very light:D railroad ties I use as a backstop for my intermediate pistol range..Teehee. jus kidding :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi SilverString, yes, I am very much for the easier softer way, lol. I am NOT good with small stuff, don't really like working with tools all that much. I take down pistols, the basic stuff. If I could unscrew a couple of screws on this model 65, without a bunch of little stuff falling out and just put some lube in place, that would be great. If the basic cleaning that you outlined, and that i did with CLP Break Free, will do the trick, along with firing range time, I am good with that. I was just dry firing it, snap caps, and it did one of those things where the hammer stops going back so I release the trigger and pull again and it works. Also, a couple of times you can feel the hammer catching on something as it pulls back but it gets all the way back and fires.
 

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There's a important line in your original post: *it's a new blemished*....

It may very well be a refurbished gun. I say this as the only blemish gun I ever bought from Taurus was a "blemished" SS PT-111 G2, via KYGUNCO. Shows up (refurb gun) and it turns out the frame safety was completely non functional and you could get the gun to fire with it engaged. Now mind you this gun had been approved to be shipped by a Taurus gunsmith (in that condition) in the time of the whole settlement debacle just getting started.

I refused it at my FFL and KYGUNCO was good enough to replace it with a NEW blued G2 at the blemished price for my trouble and wasted time.

So you may just want to send it back to Taurus and hope they will correct this factory issue free of charge.

You may want to call KYGUNCO first, they maybe able to move things along for you from their end as they buy these guns from Taurus by the pallet loads (literally). So a call from them on your behalf may expedite things.
 

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Hi SilverString, yes, I am very much for the easier softer way, lol. I am NOT good with small stuff, don't really like working with tools all that much. I take down pistols, the basic stuff. If I could unscrew a couple of screws on this model 65, without a bunch of little stuff falling out and just put some lube in place, that would be great. If the basic cleaning that you outlined, and that i did with CLP Break Free, will do the trick, along with firing range time, I am good with that. I was just dry firing it, snap caps, and it did one of those things where the hammer stops going back so I release the trigger and pull again and it works. Also, a couple of times you can feel the hammer catching on something as it pulls back but it gets all the way back and fires.
Lets hope a little cleaning and lube does the trick. Hammer catching may have to be fixed however. There are a few of the internals that could cause it that might be fixable without a parts replacement. But bottom line - if it doesn't go away . send it back to Taurus or Kygunco. But first see if it works at the range, sometimes folks can short stroke the trigger( not allowing the trigger to fully reset before pulling it again) while dry firing, which can cause the cylinder to free spin or the hammer to seem to catch. So shoot it slow and deliberate for 50 rounds or so first.
But it may be a Taurus factory issue - my new public defender revolver was missing a part from the factory, causing trigger problems, I made a replacement part and went on my way. So it happens...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks, SilverString. I called Taurus cust serv today and they guy said to keep cleaning it, shooting it and it should go away. If it don't send her in. I have always used CLP Break Free to lube, clean and protect. Hope that's good enough. BTW, I love the look and feel of the model 65. It will work, one way or the other (-:
 

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Or you can do it like we used to do Old S&W's. Take the side plate off. Apply LIBERAL amounts of Rubbing Compound (red) paste. Replace the side plate and put some snap caps in. Sit in front of the TV watching your Favorite Movie and cycle the action about 500 times. Remove the side plate and Clean the Internals well. Lube and Reassemble. Mirrors up all the surfaces. I had burrs on my 85SSUL2 trigger.. Smooth as a Baby's Behind now. YOU MUST CLEAN IT WELL afterwards or you'll create Excessive wear over time on the Pins
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thank you all for your information and encouragement! As you suggested, and Taurus CS as well,after firing it some and lubing, the Model 65 is working great!!! Been dry firing it for a week, no issues. Went to the range Sunday, 50 rds including 38 sp and 357 loads and no issues! Man, that thing is a cannon! Love it. Classic Gun.



Fed 110 gr JHP; Fed 158 Hydra Shok JHP; and Fed 125 gr JHP Premium. The 125 gr kicked like a mule with a major flash out the cylinder.
 

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I can't see the front ramp on that pistol but... I bet if you put a nice drop of bright green or another color on the front blade, you have a nice tight group. Finding a black front sight on a black target is rough, but with a dab of paint or even a sticker you see your groups shrink as your not guessing so much. ;)

Exhibit A & B: started out *fishing* for the front sight. A piece of bright green sticker later...stringing them through the bullseye.

P.S. nice shooting factoring what I am talking about. Been there, done that. :cool:
 
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