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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So a little back story, I had something eat at the bluing on my snubbie when I took it to the range a while back, which prompted me to try bluing the gun at home. It didn't come out as expected, but it has grown on me; feels like it has more character now than just a plain black gun would. I would like to keep it from rusting though. Is there a clear coat I could use, or some other type of protectant to keep the look but protect it from rust? It's usually my daily carry IWB. Right now i just clean it with some Rem oil every couple of days, but i would like something more permanent

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Where do you live? If you're in a dry area, I'd bet a weekly or semiweekly rubdown with a silicone cloth and then oiling it a few times in between would keep it exactly like that pretty much forever. There are also gun specific waxes. Even perfect bluing works by absorbing and holding on to oil. So if you live in a humid area, your routine might not be any different whether something had happened to the original bluing or not.

One option would be cerakote clear. That would offer outstanding protection and keep the look you like. And I can see why you like it.

I also like the grips BTW, I have the same kind on my non-View.

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Look into Renaissance Wax. I have used this for blued revolvers for years. Beware: it is expensive, but you use so little of it at a time.
 

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You have a number of options here:

1. Wax. I use the high tech auto liquid wax. I use Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax. It does a good job protecting the bluing on my nightstand guns.

2. Clear Coat Durakote, or Cerakote. Either can be a bit expensive and takes a bit of know how for a DIY project.

3. Clear coat in a spray can. Look for an acrylic base clear spray paint. There are usually 3 types of clear coat spray paints; Flat or Matte, Satin and Gloss. I don't use the Matte or Flat as they always have a frosted finish. I normally use the Satin over my AR camo jobs. It does not shine, the acrylic cures to a hard finish that resists scratches and it tends to give depth to my camo jobs. The gloss finish will be shiny. I have had good luck with Krylon's Maxx line of clear finishes. Just make sure you degrease it very thorough before painting. Just looking at your pistol, if you want to maintain the dull working finish, go with the Satin finish. The Gloss finish will put the shine back in it and will probably add a little depth to the contrast between the blue and where it has worn off.

4. No finish. You can keep it oiled wiping it down weekly, daily if in a really humid area. Or you can use a Dry Film Lubricant, or DFL. This has a non-tacky finish that will not gather dust. Just use a hair dryer or heat gun to bring the gun up to where it is hot to the touch, then spray or wipe it down with DFL and let dry. The heat will pull the DFL into the pores of the metal and last longer, but you will still need to apply monthly, or more if in a high humidity area. I used Mili-Tec1 in Iraq and loved it. There I would just lay my M9 out in the sun for a few minutes and then wipe it down. I went from cleaning it daily to every other week with the Mili-Tec1 DFL, and it just never loaded up with dust like it would when oiled. Word of caution, don't use any of the DFLs with wax in them. Read the label and make sure it has no wax added. The wax will build up on the finish and that is what you are trying to avoid.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all of the suggestions. Living in Utah I would say it's pretty dry, so the only real humidity I have to worry about is me sweating. I wasn't sure about being able to use a spray on clear coat or not, how it might adhear to the bluing. I think I might give that a try. Thanks again

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As others have suggested, use Renaissance Wax or Duracoat clear coat for a more permanent solution.
 

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Thanks for all of the suggestions. Living in Utah I would say it's pretty dry, so the only real humidity I have to worry about is me sweating. I wasn't sure about being able to use a spray on clear coat or not, how it might adhear to the bluing. I think I might give that a try. Thanks again

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The key to not having the clear coat peel off is to make sure ALL the grease and oil is off and it is completely degreased. I have been using clear coat spray on paint for years now on my camo ARs, mainly because I got tired of mixing the hardener in for the Durakote and Cerakote requires it be baked on. I give the clear coat a couple of days to make sure it is completely cured before putting it to use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So after all of the suggestions I decided to go with a gloss clear. Other than a run or two from spraying it on a cold day I dont think it came out too bad. I do think that the gloss made the colors pop a bit more, which I really like


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That turned out well! Nice!
 

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At a quick glance, it almost looks like a case hardening job.
 

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I actually like that look..it says the gun is a tool and not a safe queen that requires surgical gloves to handle.. thats what the revolver was made for.
 

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Just keep some clp on that baby and it will last forever... and believe me you aren't the first nor the last to mess up with cold blue
 

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No CLP on a paint finish of any kind, wax only.
 
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