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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have questions about changing up my Pt 92

I have a Pt-92 with accessory rail, stainless all silver, but i want to make the slide release, clip release button, safety switch, the slide lock, the trigger and the barrel black. if you have any info on if i can paint them or if you have a black one and you want silver hardware on your cause that would be sweet let me know.
 

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If you jump on MidwayUSA or Brownell's website, they have lots of stuff to help with what you are looking for. In fact, if you e-mail Brownell's they will probably tell you what you need. BTW, I think that your 92 will look great with the contrasting parts.
 

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From what you described, I think you will really dress that gun up nicely with those touches of customization.

Be sure and post before and after pics if this plan comes to fruition.
 
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I recommend that you have the parts you want colored in Black coated with either Duracoat or CeraKote. There are kits you can buy to do it yourself or look into having it done. CeraKote will cost more but is more durable.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have a polished stainless Taurus pt92 and im looking to trade parts to give it a two toned look. The parts are like 200 to 300 bucks and i really dont wanna pay that. I want to switch out the trigger bar, the trigger, slide catch, disassembling latch, disassembling latch release, safety latches, the extractor, mag release, pretty much any little parts to make it two toned. I havent seen this done at all, on either the blued or stainless. Im located in Kentucky and i would prefer that whoever has the parts be in or very close to my location. Thanks 92SS.jpg
 

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Better off saving up for a blued 92 and then doing direct swaps. Then you have two duo-toned 92's, especially if you swap out slides and lowers.
 

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These are where I swapped out the slide, barrel, and grips on two different PT100 .40 pistols I have. Still need to swap out the other exchangable parts to complete the conversion.
The problem with swapping ou the slide and barrel with a stranger that I can see, is that Taurus stamps the frame/slide/barrel with the guns serial number. So the pistol you would have in the end would have two different serial numbered pieces. This could affect resell value of the gun down the road should you choose to sell it at some point. And there could be some LEOs that may question this practice if it were ever stolen or checked for some reason.

Anyway my beginning photos:
click the pics:

P2290002.jpg P2290008.jpg
 

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I've used Duracoat and GunKote and they both work well as long as you do the prep correctly. Duracoat air cures and is the easiest while GunKote is a little more durable and requires oven cure. Duracoat has the most available colors, but GunKote is not far behind. I would use an air brush rather than the spray cans, but that is me.

Here's a very old and pitted S&W Model 39-2 I rebuilt in Titanium GunKote



And here is an old 1911 done in Duracoat

 

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Sweet pics, GW!! Thanks for teasing, I mean sharing. :D On the 1911, is that the Pearce rubber front strap Duracoated?? If so, how is that holding up to the wear and tear on the rubber grip??
 

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Yes, that is Duracoat on the Pearce and it flakes off some. If it bothers you they make a flex agent to add to the Duracoat that will hold up much better.

I got tired of the monotone color and used the remaining Titanium GunKote I had on the frame, slide and a couple of other parts.



That is the same Pearce with about 2 years of wear on it, a little flaking but not too bad.
 

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OK OK, Stop torturing me with the pics!!! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
@jonrjen yeah but the opposite color and i dont wanna switch out the slides or the barrel. I would just buy a new barrel, cause its not the expensive. I just wanna switch out all the little parts. It would be cool to get another gun but i dont have the money to get another gun. I might have to to the painting thing :/
 
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