Taurus Firearm Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Okay, as promised, I received my spring pack from Wolf Springs and decided to install them tonight. Let's just say that all did not go as planned, but I did get some untested improvement. I plan on taking it to the range this weekend to test the new spring (yes singular, see below) in hopes that it works well. I'll update this thread once I get back from the range.

Anyway, this is how you change springs in your M85. It is pretty much applicable to any Taurus revolver, but there are differences. I have changed the springs in my 627 with outstanding results, and it was very similar to the M85, just larger.

So let's begin

You're dealing with springy bits here. Wear eye protection. Also, make sure the gun is unloaded, be safe, don't be retarded, and be generally good.

First you remove the grips. Unscrew the grip screw and use something soft like a tongue depressor to slip under the grips


Next you have 3 screws to deal with


One of the screws is also the yoke retaining pin and is multi part (screw, spring, and pin), so make sure you don't lose it.


Next you have to remove the slide plate. Rumor has it that you can hold it like this and hit it with a mallet and the plate will pop off


Well, it does, but it will take many many wacks, so skip that part and pry up where the main spring assembly enters the frame with something that will not mar the finish. Chopsticks work wonders


This is what you are left with.


I bought a spring pack from Wolf Springs for the M85. The pack contains 2 reduced trigger springs and one reduced power main springs.


I plan to replace both springs, so I will start with the trigger (return) spring first. The trigger spring swivel holds the spring in place, so we need to remove it from the frame to get the spring out.

TRICK: if you pull the trigger back, the trigger spring center pin has a little hole that will appear when it moves through the trigger spring swivel. If you put a small pin through this hole, you can pretty much remove the swivel by hand, but for show and tell, I used a brass punch from the other side of the frame.


Okay, we have the pieces out. We will have to take the new spring and stick it on the center pin and then insert the whole mess back in the frame. This is a major pain in the ass. You will have to find a way to hold the center pin still while you put the spring on and then push the swivel on to it until you can stick a pin through the hole in the center pin to hold the 3 parts together. Be creative here. My fingers are still sore from the experience.

By the way, the swivel only fits on the spring one way. Make sure you use it.


Once pinned, the 3 parts drop right in place.


Keep your finger on the swivel and pull the pin out. The center pin will pop back into place. If it doesn't, then you can use something to pop it back into place behind the trigger.


Now on to the main spring


Compared to the trigger spring, this is a piece of cake. All you need to do is press down on the main spring plate, or cock the gun and stick a pin through the hole in the main spring center pin and uncock the gun. The pin will just lift out of there. Someone was thinking ahead when they drilled these little holes in the pins.


Now replace the spring and them use your imagination to get the spring and plate back on with out shooting it across the room.


Insert the main spring assembly back into the frame. Careful when you pull the pin on the spring as it may shoot across the room. Also make sure that you get the main spring center pin back in the right way. See pictures if you don't remember. I got hit by this :D


Okay, now replace the slide plate. It only goes in one way due to tabs, so don't force anything


Screw the screws back in, test and the replace the grips. All would be well if I didn't run into trouble.

Here is where it went bad

After installing the the lightest trigger spring and the lightened main spring, I found that the gun would function fine in double action, but would fail to cock the hammer back in single action. I doubled checked everything, and nothing was amiss. I took out the lightened trigger spring and replaced it with the other lightened Wolf spring that came with the pack. Same thing. Double action was fine, but single action would not allow the hammer to be cocked. I removed the second Wolf spring and installed the original Taurus spring and the gun worked fine.

After examining the springs I found that they vary in length. The original Taurus spring is in the middle


The lightest Wolf spring is the shortest one, and the second lightest Wolf spring is the longest one. It looks like a coil or two length makes a big difference. I am going to write Wolf an email asking what's up, but until then, I would avoid swapping out the trigger spring and only swap out the main spring.

With only the main spring swapped the trigger pull is much lighter and even smoother than it was. The issue is that the main spring gives the hammer its oomph. If too light, you're going to see light strikes. I need to head to the range and test it out with my planned self defense ammo If I get 100 or so rounds through the gun without issues, then I'll call it good and leave the spring. If I do encounter issues, I'll revert back to the factory springs.

The addition of the reduced trigger spring would make the trigger pull lighter, but not affect the reliability like a lightened main spring would. Hopefully Wolf will be able to solve my issue.

I'll update this thread as I get a reply from Wolf and range test the gun.

Update
Okay, I reinstalled the 6.5lb trigger spring to give it a try again. I'm able to cock the gun with some effort, and there is a sharp click instead of the normal dull click when I do so. The single action trigger pull is way heavier than normal, and the trigger hardly moves in single action when you pull it. The double action feels lighter than the single action pull, and it is smooth beyond belief. I'll be dry firing single action to see if it improves. Even if it doesn't, I might consider keeping the gun as is because the double action pull is so good. I'll try to make it to the range as soon as I can to try it out with various rounds to see if it functions well.

I also sent an email to Wolf today explaining the problem. I'll report back with what they have to say.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
959 Posts
Vary nice Pic layout MrTuffPaws,... You give good pointers...<:))
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
878 Posts
Very nicely done. Thanks for sharing it with us :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Well, got back to from the national forest. Ran a box of Speer short barrel though it and a few other rounds of different types. Went bang every time with the 9lb main spring and the 6.5lb trigger spring installed in both single and double action.

Single action is still stiff as heck though.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
35,214 Posts
My 85 is the best out of the box trigger I've ever felt. I see no real need to install lighter springs. And, you probably figured why I hate taking the plate off. :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
I got some Wolfy springs for my Ti 357 Tracker in hopes of improving the trigger. It improved it, but I was getting too many light primer strikes in double action mode and some in single action too. The spring length difference has to be present to address different spring wieghts.
I would fiddle with em' every now and then, polishing all the revolver innards too where rubbing of steel inards with ti-frame where present. Still LPS. Then it occured to me when I was putting the factory springs in that maybe the firing pin channel was gunked up or somethin.' So I checked it, cleaned it, then it dawned on me that the firing pin return spring may be the culprit. So I took it out and clipped 1 and a half of the tiny coils from it (it only serves to return the firing pin back enough so itwon't flip-flop around) and Lo and Behold that was it. There was too much spring there to allow the firing pin to fully engage a primer. With that little bit clipped off, I can have a the light Wolfe hammer spring in place given me that sweet trigger pull and have zero light primer strikes.

Just thought I'd share that with y'all if ya' having similar probs with after market springs and light primer strikes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the input chewybaca. I have Wolff springs in my 627 as well and they function flawlessly.

After posting about this on another gun smithing forum, it sounds like it is an issue with the trigger spring getting fulling compressed and not allowing the trigger to rotate more to allow for easier sear engagement and disengagement.

I went back to the factory trigger spring. I became concerned about premature wear on the SA sear. I'll take a look at maybe shortening the 6.5lb spring to see if I can get it to not compress as much, but unless it fixes the SA trigger being stiff, I'll stick with the factory trigger spring.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Yep, the 6.5lb spring was getting fully compressed before the sear could engage. I snipped a little over one coil from the spring and reinstalled it. The single action issue is fixed.

I wrote Wolff and told them the resolution. It will be interesting to see their reply.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
846 Posts
This would have helped me a couple hours ago. I have a 605 with a concealed hammer, so it's DA only (no SA problems here :p). I can't wait to get to the range to test but,dry firing it with snap caps feels much better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
846 Posts
chewybaca said:
...So I took it out and clipped 1 and a half of the tiny coils from it (it only serves to return the firing pin back enough so itwon't flip-flop around) and Lo and Behold that was it. There was too much spring there to allow the firing pin to fully engage a primer. With that little bit clipped off, I can have a the light Wolfe hammer spring in place given me that sweet trigger pull and have zero light primer strikes...
Can I get a how to for this? BTW this thead should be a sticky, I've already seen others asking how to do this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
205 Posts
I don't know about a M85, but my M65 is super sweet as is(new). I've got a few rounds through it with a few hundred on the snap caps and it's smoothing out really nicely. I was going to order some Wolff springs, but I don't think it"s necessary. My trigger is really sweet! How could the triggers from different guns be that different? Different production line or what?
Oh well, this gun shoots SWEET! :) I've owned S&Ws in the past, and they are good, but I am REALLY happy with this revolver.

Iz
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
299 Posts
Picke up a load to Columbia, Mo. yesterday, so sent in an order to MidwayUSA to pick up there. Got the spring set. Thanks for doing the tough part so I can copy it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
MrTuffPaws said:
Yep, the 6.5lb spring was getting fully compressed before the sear could engage. I snipped a little over one coil from the spring and reinstalled it. The single action issue is fixed.


Great info MTP. I've been all over the net looking for a tutorial on how to do this spring change...I got my main done today, but was stumped as to how to do the trigger return. YouTube usually has EVERYTHING, but to no avail.

Re: the Trigger Return Spring...just 6.5 lb spring minus 1 coil...what are you guys snipping these springs with?

Also, strange that you had the same problem with the 9 lb trigger return spring. Since that is longer than the 6.5 or the factory spring, it seems that wouldn't get fully compressed and therefore wouldn't bind in SA.

Not doubting...just seems weird.


I wrote Wolff and told them the resolution. It will be interesting to see their reply.
This kind of bugs me too. I had read the reviews at Midway about the spring kit, and specifically asked the lady I ordered from, if spring modification was needed, and she flat out replied NOPE, and that those complaints were from people who had their heads in the clouds. Now I know who was fibbin.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Well, took the 605 out to the range today and was giving me a 40% FAILURE rate on igniting primers.

Primarily Magtech.

Looks like I'm off to replace that mainspring with OEM and try my hand at changing the trigger spring.

Upsetting, because the trigger is perfect right now, other than not being counted on to fire off rounds. :)


OP, would appreciate any additional input you have on that trigger spring replacement.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Sweet Knuckles...........Lots of luck, unless you have the original OEM hammer spring it can only be replaced at Taurus, they will not sell the hammer OEM or the trigger spring OEM as replacements. They will be happy to replace it/them if you send your revolver to them. Cannot understand some of Taurus's policys, it makes it very difficult to deal with them. I feel sorry for the customer service reps.
..............Ken M
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Yep, thanks Ken for the reply.

I do have orig Hammer spring...just changed it out the other day.

Just wondering if there are any special guidelines to snipping coils from the trigger spring. Like if there's any special considerations for what you use to snip the coils off or anything.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Hammer spring changed back and snipped a little off that trigger spring with some tinsnips.

Don't want to jinx it, but double action and single action don't seem to be binding, and trigger seems to be fully rebounding. Trigger pull did feel a bit lighter though with just the mainspring switched out - but since that didn't fire my Magtech ammo, trigger spring change seems to be my only option.

Tip for anyone who was like me and nervous about screwups. I used a pair of tinsnips, but had to make sure the spring was in the back of the jaws, otherwise if towards the fore, they would splay out a little bit, and it would just mangle the coil. Started off with a practice snip of just the end of the spring, and then would put it on the spring bar and compress to see that when it bottomed out, was still able to allow the bar pinhole to poke out the other end of the spring retaining pin by a few hairs. Helps also before you take out the original spring, to see how far that pinhole sticks out when the trigger is pulled fully rearward.

Crossing my fingers that this does the trick.

BTW using the little pinhole in the spring bar is absolutely necessary. I used a safety pin, and as I was putting the trigger spring back in the revolver, I let the hammer down and manipulated the TRIGGER, rather than the spring assembly, to get everything lined up and then removed the safety pin.

Man, I can't change my car's air filter...I feel with this endeavor, my mancard just got a recharge. Thanks again OP.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top