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Discussion Starter #1
I've read a lot of how to's, what if's, and don't evers. I've shot cast in 30 Carbine revolvers but have never done it in an M1 carbine, gas operated and all. Please fill me in and bring me up to speed. How hard should I cast, gas check required or just suggested??? I have two mold that are good for the little gun, both gas checked that I use in other applications. I'm open, please educate me.
 

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Hey.

I haven't loaded for the caliber, but the general rules still apply. The round pressure in some cases is in the magnum ranges so I would cast my lead as hard as I could and for sure the gas checks are a must, unless you know a way to cast them so they withstand 30k plus pressure without gaschecks.
If you load for the caliber with slower velocities then you can use unchecked bullets, but i do not think that the action will cycle then.

Cheers,
Mad

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That's my feeling on the subject. I've loaded and fired a lot of rounds from a carbine, just used FMJ and went for factory-milspec duplication. I cast, loaded and fired a lot thru revolvers. As a general rule I don't cast hard, seldom over 12 BHN and I push them hard thru my revolvers, but the bullets fit and I seldom have a leading problem. It is the gas port and operating system contamination I am specifically worried about and that is not a concern in revolvers.
Suggestions and opinions eagerly solicited!!!!!!
 

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I tried cast in my M1 carbine and had a lot of leading in the gas port. Had to disassemble and drill it out every 100 or so rounds. It wasn't leading the bore, just the gas port. I finally gave it up. It just wasn't worth the hassle.
 

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I tried cast in my M1 carbine and had a lot of leading in the gas port. Had to disassemble and drill it out every 100 or so rounds. It wasn't leading the bore, just the gas port. I finally gave it up. It just wasn't worth the hassle.
I think this is the same reason you very rarely hear of shooting cast in an AR.
 

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Sir, I shoot cast in a Ruger revolver and have tried them in a few carbines. The two GI guns one would lead the gas port worse and quicker than the other. The bore in it was rougher and it leaded. A Universal and the other GI was not as bad. I ran gas checks and would tear them down every couple hundred rounds. Was casting hard and tempering in cold water out of the mold. They were as hard as the Oregon Trail bullets. Softer cast filled the gas port quick. I traded off the carbines because I hated hunting brass and cleaning them. The revolver would do what I wanted and it did not throw brass all over hells 1/2 acre. Also the Ruger revolvers can go forever without the kind of cleaning the carbines needed. Bottom line you can run cast in some barrels. I think the lube is as much problem as lead in the gas system. I ran some 1/2 jacket swagged that didn't foul the gas system is the reason I say that. The core in them is pure lead and it ran by the same port without filling it with lead.
 

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It was going to be an experiment for my own education; don't think I'm willing to try it. I loved the Ruger using Lyman 311359 and 311316, worked well, then some one made me an offer I couldn't refuse. Maybe I need to go looking for a used Ruger, or a Raging 30. Is that what Taurus called theirs? Unfortunately I passed on a 10" Contender barrel a while back. Thanks to all!!
 

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The Contender in 30 carbine is a fun barrel. It is one I have wished often I had kept. The 10" Contender barrel runs velocities close to what a carbine runs and can also do plinker loads. 1/2 jacket bullets are explosive on small critters. Some barrels will stabilize the longer rifle bullets. I love the Ruger revolvers but the Contender barrel was one I really screwed up on when I traded it off. Have thought about building one with a twist for the heaver bullets.
 

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I think this is the same reason you very rarely hear of shooting cast in an AR.

I have tried to load cast for an AR . Not very successful . I think most " modern " AR barrels have a twist that is much too fast .

I was casting ~ 50 grain bullets . I think , considering the 1-8 or 1-9 twist , a much heavier cast bullet would have a better chance ?

And getting it to cycle the action is another issue .

On the other hand , I load lead bullets in .30 Carbine . Once I learned not to size the bullets to .308" , and started sizing them to .311" to .312" , accuracy greatly improved . :)

I have not noticed a lead problem , but I have not disassembled the gas " tappet " .

If I do my part , I can hit the steel silhouettes at 100 to 150 yards .

Some of the bullets I have loaded , I got from a friend . They were soft lead , swagged is my guess .

The bullets my cousin and I cast are Lee ~ 120 grain and are mostly wheel weight metal .

Tumble lubed in Lee Liquid Alox & paint thinner . With or without Johnson Paste Wax added to the mix .

God bless
Wyr
 

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I have tried to load cast for an AR . Not very successful . I think most " modern " AR barrels have a twist that is much too fast .

I was casting ~ 50 grain bullets . I think , considering the 1-8 or 1-9 twist , a much heavier cast bullet would have a better chance ?

And getting it to cycle the action is another issue .

On the other hand , I load lead bullets in .30 Carbine . Once I learned not to size the bullets to .308" , and started sizing them to .311" to .312" , accuracy greatly improved . :)

I have not noticed a lead problem , but I have not disassembled the gas " tappet " .

If I do my part , I can hit the steel silhouettes at 100 to 150 yards .

Some of the bullets I have loaded , I got from a friend . They were soft lead , swagged is my guess .

The bullets my cousin and I cast are Lee ~ 120 grain and are mostly wheel weight metal .

Tumble lubed in Lee Liquid Alox & paint thinner . With or without Johnson Paste Wax added to the mix .

God bless
Wyr

I own a 30 carbine also. It's an original IBM MFG. I won't shoot lead in it.
That "tappet" is probably expensive and hard to get.
It's my understanding the gas recoil system is extreamly difficult to clean.
I wish you good luck in shooting them. I'm especially concerned about oversize boolits.
I don't see how you could prevent leading in the gas operated M1. If they were piston instead of gas I can see it would be ok.
Good luck to you Sir.
Welcome to the best forum on the net.
 

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I own a 30 carbine also. It's an original IBM MFG. I won't shoot lead in it.
That "tappet" is probably expensive and hard to get.
It's my understanding the gas recoil system is extreamly difficult to clean.
I wish you good luck in shooting them. I'm especially concerned about oversize boolits.
I don't see how you could prevent leading in the gas operated M1. If they were piston instead of gas I can see it would be ok.
Good luck to you Sir.
Welcome to the best forum on the net.
If I have not mentioned it , my Carbine is an Inland ( General Motors ) .

I have had my Carbine apart b but did not remove the " tappet " . It is held in place by some kind of " retainer " that screws in . That retainer is suppose to be staked in place , to prevent it from unscrewing .

My cousin had his unscrew , I helped him work on his .

So , if mine leads up , I will just take it apart and clean it .

I have come to the conclusion that going at least .002" oversize on lead bullets helps prevent leading and improves accuracy in many / most cases . As much or more than hard bullets . As long as you are below max powder charge , pressure is not a problem . Lead alloy " squshes " much easier than a copper jacketed bullet .

But , if you load oversized bullets , check to see if the loaded round will chamber in your gun .

God bless
Wyr
 

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I shoot almost 100% cast in my 30 carbine and never have a leading problem or plugging up the gas port or piston. Have had it apart and couldn't tell the difference then if it had been FMJ ammo. INLAND 1945
 
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