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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
All of my guns except my EDC stay locked up. Not all are in the same safe, though.

I have one safe that's of the thick sheet metal variety. It's securely bolted to the wall from the inside with a series of high strength bolts. It has two factory locks on it - one higher up on the door, one lower on the door. Not all that easily compromised, but a low end safe, to be sure.

Still, I think that a person with a very large crowbar could bend out the door - either in the long span between the two locks, or at the corners of the door - and gain some level of access to the safe.

What do you think of getting 3 very strong keyed padlocks (all keyed the same) and putting them at these three weak points - the two corners of the door (at the opening side) and one in the middle of the span between the two factory locks?

Has anyone else done this? How did you do it, with hasps, or just with holes that a padlock shank could fit through?

Am I gaining anything? I know a better safe is going to protect better, but the cost and hassle and delivery is a consideration. Opinions pro and con are sought.
 

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Got a pic - tough to visualize the setup. A talented BG goes for the weakest point first. Will that crowbar pop it off the wall if used properly? There are some great padlocks available - the lock attachment question that you ask is key.
 
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Want to know how fast a standard bolt cutter goes thru a padlock hasp? One option is to locate a safe within the tight and deep confines of a closet so that a long crow bar cannot be used in place. In reality if a bad guy has time and desire, very little will deter them. A safe is however a very smart way to prevent access to your firearms from kids and the casual visitor. Out of sight is a sound move.

Same goes for a conspicuous burglar alarm system. If they make a lot of noise it does make the bad guy less likely to linger around. Big-a$$ dogs are pretty good too - lol
 
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My opinion only:
A noisy alarm system helps a lot. If you have nothing to make a thief nervous about spending time in your home, they will
be able to take their time and open about any lower end safe. We have all watched videos of guys with big crowbars opening
a safe. I believe the trick is to deter them from a quick snatch and go with some sort of locked container/safe. Then make your
alarm system very noisy and distracting. It will make them want to leave quicker and not spend time prying something open.
Sirens, lights on, and strobes going off inside the house. Of course the system needs to be installed with care to avoid false
alarms:) We have a small delay in our system so we can shut it down if we make a mistake. And car alarm type remotes to
arm and disarm. Once the delay goes by, many lights outside go on, cheap party strobes are triggered, and interior and exterior
sirens go off. This is coupled with a good insurance policy.

JB
 

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or you could take it to a welding shop and have them weld some plate over the length of the gap in the door, makes it hard to get the crowbar in.
 

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Bottom line is that if someone wants in the safe bad enough they will find a way...or find a way to take it with them. I believe in boobie traps in various locations of the property. Not to injure, mame, or kill.....only to even the playing field. However, by law and for liability purposes make sure to post a sign stating that your property is subject to anti-theft measure above what may be concidered normal and that stepping onto your property without being invited or escorted that they assume all responsibility for personal bodily injury or harm that is assured to be inflicted upon them. Don't forget to add a Big Smiley Face.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Got a pic - tough to visualize the setup. A talented BG goes for the weakest point first. Will that crowbar pop it off the wall if used properly? There are some great padlocks available - the lock attachment question that you ask is key.
Good point about the pic. Not good with cameras, but I found this pic online which pretty much approximates my safe. I can't imagine they'd be able to pop it off the wall, as it's in a closet (hidden when door is closed.) I'd think it'd be hard to get enough leverage for that, but I could be wrong.

Looking at this pic, I see the three weak points as being:
-halfway between the two locks on the door
-the high corner of the door above the high lock
-the low corner of the door below the low lock.

As far as attaching the padlocks, any padlock is only as good as it's hasp. I was thinking that INSTEAD of a hasp, maybe I could just drill two holes at each location - one in the door and one in the safe to accommodate the u-shaped shank of the padlock, but now I'm thinking that WON'T work because the shank may not clear the edge of the door (where the sheet metal is folded over.) Hard to explain. I'll try to make a drawing.

http://images2.opticsplanet.com/365-240-ffffff/opplanet-homak-12-gun-cabinet-silver.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
A noisy alarm system helps a lot. If you have nothing to make a thief nervous about spending time in your home, they will
be able to take their time and open about any lower end safe.
That's a very good point. I've avoided noise alarms in our home because of the false alarms I used to get at my retail business. However, it would only be necessary to set the alarm when we're leaving town for a couple of days. No need to set the alarm when we're there at night.
 

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That's a very good point. I've avoided noise alarms in our home because of the false alarms I used to get at my retail business. However, it would only be necessary to set the alarm when we're leaving town for a couple of days. No need to set the alarm when we're there at night.
Alarms have come a long way. I've had one for a couple of years and have never had a false alarm.
 

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Give me a RA grinder w/cut-off wheel and I'd make mince meat of a light duty storage box no matter how many locks - just go thru the door or side wall. Would take longer on the new safe I have, but doable if given the time. When I was doing safe research, one of the many recommendations I ran across was not to install it where you keep your tools (garage, workshop, storage shed). Some type of motion alarm that makes a horrendous noise would help, too, along with a couple of junkyard dogs.
 
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Looping a lock through the door may not work well - IMHO you want short, hardened covered shackles if you are adding locks. The lock on the right has lasted me years outdoors on my garage door. On an attempted break in the fools were wailing on it so hard (no room to cut it) that they woke the neighbors who called me. My security lights were on and one guy was checking out his stash from the last garage while the other one hammered away in the second light - idiots! They ran as 3 of us simultaneously appeared each from a different house. The lock hasp was bolted through the solid door with hardened bolts. That lock is still hanging on the door today. I changed the fencing from chain link to solid and moved it beyond the door that is right on an alley.

locks.jpg

It sounds like you have the safe/lock box in a good location - hidden and hard to remove from tight quarters. Sounds like you need a good welder. Lots of other good perimeter suggestions as well. Lower the comfort level. In a recent crime the BGs used the homeowner's own tools (a cutoff grinder) to open his lock boxes - and they took the tools - probably made lunch while they were at it!! Post up solutions!!
 
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What you have is ideal if you just want to keep your own kids away from the guns, at least until they are old enough to understand power tools, but they are great for securing guns from the younger kids.

Any safe out there can be breached, at least anything mere mortals can afford. A high speed drill and a Saws-all can do a job on a pretty good gun safe and a good wrecking pry-bar on lesser safes.. That good of a safe, I might just try to pry away from the floor or wall and push over onto a couple of good dollies, roll outside and wench up into the back of a pickup truck and be gone
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Good ideas here. From these comments, I'm getting the sense that trying to add padlocks might just be a waste of time. Might make me FEEL more secure without really being secure. I don't know how well equipped and knowledgeable the typical burglar is. I know that cutting devices would go through it like butter. If cutters are standard crook tools, no point in putting on locks. If not, I'd like to protect against crowbar access. Still need to think on it.
 

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Good ideas here. From these comments, I'm getting the sense that trying to add padlocks might just be a waste of time. Might make me FEEL more secure without really being secure. I don't know how well equipped and knowledgeable the typical burglar is. I know that cutting devices would go through it like butter. If cutters are standard crook tools, no point in putting on locks. If not, I'd like to protect against crowbar access. Still need to think on it.
I wouldn't even think about getting into the steal business without some really good bolt cutters, a great pry bar and even a small angle grinder that was powered by a lithium Ion 18 or 24 volt battery, but I've got a feeling my first target would have a Vault door on it and I would need a demolition drill and demolition charges to breach his place. No telling what kind of security system he has though, probably poison gas~gas my never issued $28 dollar Israeli mask probably wouldn't work on! :)
 
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