Taurus Firearm Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,283 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
OK, so back on the stress level thread I mentioned about our clothes dryer crapping out.
I thought it was the push to start switch had gone bad. Nope. Replaced it with a new one today.
When I opened up the back of the top console I found the schematic diagram of the wiring.
DryerSchematic.jpg

Now, the timer motor is running when turned to whatever drying time is selected, so I know it has power.
That leaves only 2 things, I think, that are keeping the motor from spinning the drum.
The motor itself, or the thermal fuse which is a one-shot deal, when it blows that's it.
If I read this right, if the motor does not run, the heater does not work either, as it looks to be a switch in the motor that goes from start to run and also turns on the heater.

I'm going to pull the dryer out from the wall in the morning, pull off the back cover and ohm out the fuse and motor.

The fuse is mounted to the blower that forces air through the drum. #59

P0507085-00003-1.jpg

Do you think that too many items in the drum may have caused it to get too hot and blow the fuse?
The fuse is about $15, but the drive motor is $124.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,279 Posts
Every time that happened to me it was the belt. I use a car v belt. Cheaper and lasts longer.

Sarge
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,899 Posts
In my experience I've had the drum drive belt break , if your sure the motor isn't turning then this is probabley not the problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,283 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I'll know as soon as I get the back off. The belt is $22.
PD_0026_110_341241.jpg

I'll let y'all know what I find.

Computers are more my speed, not these electro-mechanical monstrosities.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
16,956 Posts
Well GWK I have replaced the belt in a dryer before and I can tell you with out a doubt you will cut yourself on something sharp inside there and you will practice your swearing. Take pictures as you take it apart and it will go back together a lot easier with the help these will give you, Good Luck....

1.1 USA.gif
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,631 Posts
Most likely the thermal switch. Just check for continuity with a multimeter.
 
  • Like
Reactions: A-TEAM 513

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,283 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Opened the top cover, can't see a darn thing. Belt is not broken.
From the way this thing is constructed, it has to be completely disassembled to replace any parts in the main cabinet.
(BTW, it is a used dryer, and it worked for about 6 weeks, 30 day warranty - Murphy strikes again!)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,850 Posts
I know what you mean about how they put appliances together today, I really do not think they want homeowners to fix anything anymore. If it is a bad thermal overload, then there could be several causes that made it "blow". It may have been overloaded with clothes, a bearing could be going (you should hear that), fault with the thermostat controlling the temperature or lastly a motor wiring problem. In my experience the thermostat control may be the likely culprit. If you cannot get it figured out and you need to replace it. See if Sears has a scratch and dent store near where you live. You can find some really good deals there on either discontinued models or if there are scratches on a new machine and the customer refuses to accept it. Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
601 Posts
I think the systematic approach to the problem is the rignt solution, inspect and test each component on the electrical system and nail the right item that have a problem rather that speculate and end with the wrong items replaced. I think you are doing fine with the analysis. If this is a problem that I have i will start with the easiest item to test to go to the hardest and more expensive component. Most of the time this is usually a fuse problem. That is what the fuse is for, it fail to save the other components for futher punishment and failure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
OK, so back on the stress level thread I mentioned about our clothes dryer crapping out.
I thought it was the push to start switch had gone bad. Nope. Replaced it with a new one today.
When I opened up the back of the top console I found the schematic diagram of the wiring.
View attachment 24870

Now, the timer motor is running when turned to whatever drying time is selected, so I know it has power.
That leaves only 2 things, I think, that are keeping the motor from spinning the drum.
The motor itself, or the thermal fuse which is a one-shot deal, when it blows that's it.
If I read this right, if the motor does not run, the heater does not work either, as it looks to be a switch in the motor that goes from start to run and also turns on the heater.

I'm going to pull the dryer out from the wall in the morning, pull off the back cover and ohm out the fuse and motor.

The fuse is mounted to the blower that forces air through the drum. #59

View attachment 24871

Do you think that too many items in the drum may have caused it to get too hot and blow the fuse?
The fuse is about $15, but the drive motor is $124.

Check the door switch sometimes they get full of lint. If the switch is bad you can just make a jumper to in between the terminals to test or use a tester across the lugs on the back of the switch(disconnect the quick connect from the switch before testing with a meter) also if you have a meter check the power going into the motor (white and black wire) you might have to hold in the start button while testing to see if you have power at the motor. If you don't have power at the motor then the problem is before the motor. I will send you a pm with my phone number I can walk you thru diagnostics over the phone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,379 Posts
On most dryers the heating element can be accessed from the back. You will usually have a combination of 2 or 3 limits and or one time fuse links. Some have a small push button limit. I use a smart phone instead of computer so your photo of the wiring diagram is not clear enough for me to read it. The limits or fuse links usually trip or melt from the dryer vent being stopped up. Wrens down here will build nest in the outlet if they do not close. So check all the eat to the outside. I doubt it is a motor. Also make sure you have 208/240 to the plug. You can have some timers that only run on one leg of power.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,084 Posts
I am not an electrical Guru. I do have one bit of advice about electricity that I know from personal experience as a child.
"Do not stick a screwdriver into a wall socket".
Lesson over.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,279 Posts
Junk it, Don't throw away your money. Better yet , invest in a solar powered dryer. A clothesline.
I disagree. Dryers are stone simple and I've kept ours running for 15 years. My daughter has a newer unit and I've already fixed it. None of the electronics failed just the normal things, belt, socks in the pump, lint in switches, coils burn out and so forth.

Sarge
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,283 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
I need to move it out of the laundry cubby to have more room to open it up and see what's wrong.
Too tight a space in there.
Just got back from shopping, so maybe after lunch.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
893 Posts
those thermal fuses blow if you stand by the dryer and fart, I jumped mine out which is safe because you have the other cycling thermostats and the hi-temp as well.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
893 Posts
I disagree. Dryers are stone simple and I've kept ours running for 15 years. My daughter has a newer unit and I've already fixed it. None of the electronics failed just the normal things, belt, socks in the pump, lint in switches, coils burn out and so forth.

Sarge
ditto, mesadeldoug does not know what he is talking about.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top