[leadhead2]

I'm thinking of buying a 856 and was wondering if I can expect any problems with it.
I have a model 85 and it has been perfect. Any info would be great.
Thanks.

 

[br549arkie]

If you buy one do it in person and inspect it very closely for cylinder timing timing problems. I own three model 85's that the timing on is perfect on all of them. I bought a 856 last August online and it had a serious timing problem. Do some research on the net and you'll find that is not uncommon with the 856.

 

[rr7135]

Like br549arkie said, look it over before you buy. I have about 100 rounds through my 856 and so far so good.

 

[leadhead2]

Yes, I will buy at RK and will be able to inspect it. Thanks

 

[Peak Fudd]

I have two 856s, both have been reliable for several hundred rounds each. I hand selected mine from what my dealer had in stock. I recommend doing the same, if you can.

 

[leadhead2]

How exactly do you go about checking a new gun in the store? Will they let you dry fire it?
What do I look for to make sure it's good to go?
Thanks

 

[lee n. field]

How exactly do you go about checking a new gun in the store?

My usual revolver check out doc: revolver_checkout.pdf . There are other similar documents out there.

Will they let you dry fire it?

Probably. Not a good sign if they don't. Dry firing shouldn't hurt the gun (except for .22 rimfires)(and except for Charter Arms stuff, where each uncushioned hammer drop is one off the 800 or so you get before the transfer bar inevitably breaks).

What do I look for to make sure it's good to go?
Thanks

Timing. Clocked barrel. End shake and cylinder gap. (Bring a feeler gauge set with you. A cheapo set from Walmart automotive dept. should be fine.). Push off. Sprung crane. Side plate condition, and buggered sideplate screws.

Don't know what that all means? See the document.

 

[leadhead2]

My usual revolver check out doc: revolver_checkout.pdf . There are other similar documents out there.



Probably. Not a good sign if they don't. Dry firing shouldn't hurt the gun (except for .22 rimfires)(and except for Charter Arms stuff, where each uncushioned hammer drop is one off the 800 or so you get before the transfer bar inevitably breaks).



Timing. Clocked barrel. End shake and cylinder gap. (Bring a feeler gauge set with you. A cheapo set from Walmart automotive dept. should be fine.). Push off. Sprung crane. Side plate condition, and buggered sideplate screws.

Don't know what that all means? See the document.

Thank you lee.... very good read.