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I was reading on XDtalk.com the other day. Somebody posted he/she cleans an AK-47 with hot water after shooting corrosive ammo. I have also heard that black powder guns (don't own any) are cleaned this way. Is this really a good idea?
 

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Soap and hot water or ammonia and rinse and dry and oil real good!
 

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Absolutely! My owners manual, for my cap 'n ball revolver, even details this process.
 

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I soak the bore of my AK with Sweet's 7.62 and after about five minutes soak the thing in hot soapy water. I then use a hair dryer to get the water out of all the hard to get to areas. you get all the corrosive stuff out and the guns comes out smelling like lemons.
 

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I was reading on XDtalk.com the other day. Somebody posted he/she cleans an AK-47 with hot water after shooting corrosive ammo. I have also heard that black powder guns (don't own any) are cleaned this way. Is this really a good idea?
The problem is the corrosive salts in corrosive primed ammo. I carry a "dollar store" bottle of window cleaner with ammonia with me when I shoot the surplus ammo in my Moisin-Nagant. Immediately after shooting, I spray from the chamber to the muzzle to neutralize and wash away the corrosive salts. I remove the bolt and rinse it as well with the ammonia window cleaner.
I wipe the bolt and other parts down with the window cleaner, and then dry with a paper towel. AS SOON AS I GET HOME, I do a thorough cleaning (Hoppe's 9) followed by a light oiling.

I also shoot black powder, and hot soapy water is an excellent solvent for black powder fouling, followed by a more traditional cleaning and oiling.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Soap and hot water or ammonia and rinse and dry and oil real good!
Is this a must do kinda thing? I have been shooting Yugo mil surplus thru my Saiga and I clean the bore with Hoppes, then several patches down the barrel coated in Rem-Oil or G96 CLP. Then I break down the rest of the rifle and just use these lubricants with q-tips to clean everything else. I don't get the Hoppes solvent on the painted surfaces of the rifle.
 

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If your ammo is corrosive, I would think a good flushing with soapy water or ammonia and water is a must. The Hoppes might slow down corrosion, but will not eliminate it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If your ammo is corrosive, I would think a good flushing with soapy water or ammonia and water is a must. The Hoppes might slow down corrosion, but will not eliminate it.
Alright. Please take me to school here. I have battled battery acid leaks on my GM pickup (darn side-mount cables) and I neutralize it with a spray (or Coke) that is yellow and will turn purple if acid is present. You can't just wash this stuff off with water. Is this a similar analogy to what corrosive ammo does to a gun?
 

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When I was in the big green machine I used to regularly disassemble my M16 lower and hose it out good with hot water and Formula 409. Same with M60 machine guns. Just makes 'em a lot easier to clean. I still scrub my semi auto barrels out with hot water and simple green before I go to work on them with solvents. It gets the big stuff out and just makes it a lot quicker and easier to clean. Just gotta make sure you get all the water out. For that I use an aerosol can loaded with acetone (which will mix with water) and an air compressor.
 

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Absolutely! My owners manual, for my cap 'n ball revolver, even details this process.
Hey Smokewagon,

A side note. I picked up my Henry .45 Colt last Friday (H006C). Words can't describe the awesome beauty of this rifle. When I brought it home still in the box my wife said "this is what you have been raving about"? Then I said here, check it out. She said "I'm shooting this first, right"? Pics may be forthcoming..............
 

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Alright. Please take me to school here. I have battled battery acid leaks on my GM pickup (darn side-mount cables) and I neutralize it with a spray (or Coke) that is yellow and will turn purple if acid is present. You can't just wash this stuff off with water. Is this a similar analogy to what corrosive ammo does to a gun?
Corrosive ammo primers contains a variety of salts (often mercury salts) that are hygroscopic (attract and retain water) which promotes corrosion if not removed. As are most common salts they are readily water soluble, and the ammonia helps neutralize the corrosive effect of the salts.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
When I was in the big green machine I used to regularly disassemble my M16 lower and hose it out good with hot water and Formula 409. Same with M60 machine guns. Just makes 'em a lot easier to clean. I still scrub my semi auto barrels out with hot water and simple green before I go to work on them with solvents. It gets the big stuff out and just makes it a lot quicker and easier to clean. Just gotta make sure you get all the water out. For that I use an aerosol can loaded with acetone (which will mix with water) and an air compressor.
Gotcha. Well today I took everyone's advice and cleaned my 2 Saiga's this way. I hope I did it right. Washing a gun with water made me stutter. I broke them down; dust cover, spring, bolt, gas tube and then sprayed them with windex then simple green down the barrel and everywhere including the trigger group. Today was windy and warm here so I set them on my pick-up tailgate to dry. After a couples hours I then sprayed copius amount of Rem-Oil on all the parts and re-assembled.
 

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Gotcha. Well today I took everyone's advice and cleaned my 2 Saiga's this way. I hope I did it right. Washing a gun with water made me stutter. I broke them down; dust cover, spring, bolt, gas tube and then sprayed them with windex then simple green down the barrel and everywhere including the trigger group. Today was windy and warm here so I set them on my pick-up tailgate to dry. After a couples hours I then sprayed copius amount of Rem-Oil on all the parts and re-assembled.
I don't like letting them air dry. If you've got parts where the finish wears through to bare metal you'll be surprised how fast it can rust. I always dry them out chemically, and I use compressed air to blow them out afterwards. I like acetone because it mixes with water and it evaporates really fast. WD-40 is the obvious choice to displace water, but then you've got WD-40 all over your weapon, and for me I'd still wind up using acetone to get the WD off. Most break parts cleaners are little more than acetone, and the non-chlorine stuff should work pretty much the same as straight acetone. Just gotta watch it on painted stuff - like the dots for safeties and sometimes sights. It's also an excellent paint remover. JAT
 

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Brace_for_Impact:

I'm in agreement with dbeardslee on this. It sounds like you did everything correctly, until you decided to air-dry your weapon. Gunscrubber, acetone, non-chlorinated brake cleaner, even rubbing alcohol (preferably 91% or pure) will work. Followed with an air compressor or a rag. Get the gun dry as quickly as possible. Then re-oil as per your usual regimen.

Many people shudder at the thought of water getting on their guns. Water won't hurt your gun, but prolonged drying will invite rust. The key is once your firearm is wet, you need to either keep it fully wet (submerged) or get it completely dry and then re-oiled as quickly as possible.

Even a dunking in salt water, believe it or not, won't harm your gun. It's once you come out of the ocean, the combination of air and salt deposits on exposed metal that cause rust. Then it becomes a race to get the firearm rinsed of salts, dried, and then re-oiled to prevent corrosion. Been there, done that. It's what they make plastic bags for, so you DON"T have to get in that race, but that's another story for another day.

We live and learn.
 

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even rubbing alcohol (preferably 91% or pure) will work.
Rubbing alcohol is denatured (dry) alcohol with water added. For drying out a gun it might be better to get some denatured alcohol at the hardware store - no water. Same stuff works great to dry out a gas tank, too. Rubbing alcohol will probably work, but once it's saturated it won't mix with any more water so it just won't 'soak up' as much as the dry stuff will. JAT

I get straight acetone at the hardware store, and I've got a couple refillable aerosol cans. I put it in a can, pump up the pressure with my air compressor (with a moisture filter installed) and just hose 'em out. It blasts it back into all the little nooks and cranies, and then I blow that out with dry compressed air. Those little refillable cans come in real handy.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Rubbing alcohol is denatured (dry) alcohol with water added. For drying out a gun it might be better to get some denatured alcohol at the hardware store - no water. Same stuff works great to dry out a gas tank, too. Rubbing alcohol will probably work, but once it's saturated it won't mix with any more water so it just won't 'soak up' as much as the dry stuff will. JAT

I get straight acetone at the hardware store, and I've got a couple refillable aerosol cans. I put it in a can, pump up the pressure with my air compressor (with a moisture filter installed) and just hose 'em out. It blasts it back into all the little nooks and cranies, and then I blow that out with dry compressed air. Those little refillable cans come in real handy.
I got acetone, I got lacguer thinner, I got mineral spirits, I got alcohol (some of it I pass through my kidneys) :) I even have a compressor with the high PSI blow tool ( how's that for a technical description) to clean my chain saws and other things. What I don't have is the proper knowledge. Guess that's why I'm on this site. Hope my gun's don't rust away while I'm sleeping tonight..........................
 
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