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Absolutely Filthy WWB 9mm

2656 Views 10 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  PhillyShooter
I've been shooting WWB 9mm and .45 for several years now and never had a problem with that ammo. That is until just recently, when I wanted to put another 100rds or so through my Taurus 905 revolver.

I had one box of WWB 9mm that was so abosolutely filthy, my weapon looked like I had been shooting "black powder". Fortunately, I had a bottle of Hoppe's No. 9 in my range bag so I was able to clean up my weapon. What a mess!

The next box of WWB and then a box of brass Blazer were relatively clean, as they usually are. My hand was starting to say rather unpleasant things to me regarding the "bite" from that 150rds so I called it a day.

When I got home, it took me at least 20-30 min to really clean that weapon. Every time I thought it was clean I would pickup some more gunk and just start over again. My hands looked like I had been playing with the boot polish again. ;D

Anyway, when I get another 100rds through the 905 without incident, it will become my alternate carry weapon. I have a Blackhawk leather holster for it that I really like and can't wait to put it to work.


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WWB got to be so filthy and oily for me (especially the bulk packs in 9mm) that I stopped buying them. I picked up a bulk pack of .45 ACP the other day and each cardboard sleeve/separator was spotted heavily with oil from the rounds. Never again for WWB.
This is being added for consideration purposes and for no other reasons.
every one.

Gunzrfunz, you hit the nail on the head.

Humans being somewhat lazy on gun maintenance( been there and do that at times), or expect " brand spanking new off the show room floor", are in for a bit of disappointment.

These guns are test fired at the factory and may be so more than once through this process. It happens. Oiling and lubing for shipment and long term storage just add to the "gunk" or dirty problem.

So a cleaning and lube prior to shooting is mandatory.

As for the the ammo being dirty. All of it is to a certain extent. Some more than others for various reasons.

All powders have varied burning rates. All powders burn faster or slower depending on their chemistry and physical make up. Also for what these powders were designed to do.

Slower burning powders go for long barreled guns in general or to give the pressure spike curve more time to peakand then die out. There are other reasons, but won't go into all the details

Faster burning powders normally go for short barreled guns. Or can.
Just to make matters worse there are powders with middle of the road burn rates as well.

There are a lot of vagaries and many factors as to how powders burn, are used in what ammo for what reasons, and perform in the field.

With the short barreled pistols, the various powders wind up burning outside the gun or do not completely burning up inside. No chance to convert to useable energy. Not enough room to do so.

Temperature, humidity, and other factors cause performance characteristic changes as well.
So know we take commercial ammo of the various brands and shoot them through all types of pistols with varying degrees of all the factors presented here so far.
These same ammos all have to fit and function through all the various pistols in known existence.

What to try to come up with that recipe folks?

All these powders, in all these types of ammo, for practice or general use, are not normally the fast burn rate kind. Personal defense ammo is normally geared toward fast rate powders that will burn efficiently in medium to long barreled guns.Some ammo is designed for shorty barrels, but there are still too short barrels to take into consideration

Take all these ammos and shoot them out through very stubby barrels just similar to a 2in. snubbie revolver, or less barrel length.

Pistols measure barrel length in such a way that the whole cartridge case takes up a good portion of that "barrel length". This means a 3 in. barreled pistol may actually have only a 2in. or less true length for the bullet to travel before it leaves the gun.

With all the at has been described above, is it any wonder that people think that their ammo has the dirtiest grit,grime, and baked on gunk when shot out of these short barreled weapons?

Granted, the ammo makers are going to use a general use powder for there ammo to cut costs, but fit and function are still at the heart of the whole thing.
Ammo makers have to come up with an economical way to have that fit and function work through a multitude of weapons. And.... do it profitly. That's why they're is the business.
Yes, there are cheap powders, but that again does not mean poor quality as many will think.
Cheap and crappy gets one's profits and business taking away by others in a cut throat market.

So if we have to all apply some "elbow grease" and labor to cleaning the gun, so be it.

Most ammo makers do try to have very efficient burning powders. It's in their best interests to do so with the picky crowd of shooters out there who demand performance.
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I am also done with the WWB 9mm ammo. My wife was shooting them in an indoor range while watched to see if she was milking the trigger, every time she shot I could see a clould of powder. The gun was so filthy it took twice as long to clean. I will stick with the Blazer Brass.
There you go Clarence 40. You cannot beat that Blazer Brass. Thanks, Digger Doug
Yes, the Blazer Brass [and Blazer aluminum] are both fine and what I use the most often now. They have WWB beat most times in both price and cleanliness. S&B and MagTech I like too but they're a bit costlier.
Taurus_9mm said:
Yes, the Blazer Brass [and Blazer aluminum] are both fine and what I use the most often now. They have WWB beat most times in both price and cleanliness. S&B and MagTech I like too but they're a bit costlier.
If you aren't a reloader, is there any reason to prefer the brass over the aluminum? Or are the cases the only difference? My Sportsman's Warehouse store has aluminum $12+ for 50.

(I have had one split case in aluminum.)

Thanks a million

Some guns don't like to feed the aluminum cases.

Buy a box or two of the aluminum cased ammo if you feel like it and try it out in the pistol. If there are no ammo induced reliability issues then buying in bulk couldn't hurt. I use Russian steel but coated cased ammo and Blazer through the PT111 and have had good results.

Others may not. Even pistols from the same maker have different performance characteristics the way two similar make cars have different performance traits.
Very true. I've only had 1 gun that didn't like the aluminum cased ammo and thats my XD. But it will feed Wolf no problem. My Kimber, Makarov and I don't recall what else I've had good luck with aluminum case.

I recently bought a few boxes of Blazer Brass at the local outside of the city Walmart, 4 boxes of 9mm @ $7.78/each and 2 boxes of .45 @ $11.36/each. Out of 2 boxes of the 9mm I used in my Kel-Tec P11 about 25 rounds jammed. Out of the 1 box of .45 I used in my PT145 15 of the 50 rounds jammed. The weapons were clean, I always clean after a visit to the range, I also did a range cleaning to ensure it wasn't the guns. Then I bought a box of Independence .45 at the range that gave me no problem. I've never had a problem with my Kel-Tec before with any ammo I've used. The PT145 in new, under 200 down the chute so it could be because it's not broken it yet, has anyone else had any problems with Blazer Brass? Or does anyone have another suggestion of what the problem could be?
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