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Discussion Starter #1
So we brought home a new 856 UL yesterday afternoon and we got to shoot it today. Upon cleaning it this afternoon I noticed the cloth patches (100% cotton) were hanging on the crown a bit. I rubbed my finger over it and it's rough. I mean it snags old cotton t-shirt rough. Interestingly enough it seems to run in specific direction CW/CCW depending. I had just read here I think that it's "tooling marks"? I sincerely hope it's not from firing 32 rounds of 125gr FMJ 38spl today. And if it is tooling marks from the factory- do they have a QA department?
Has anyone smoothed out the crown? Should it even be attempted at the kitchen table? By hand? Dremel? Would you send it to the factory to correct?
Anyone else found this?
Should I be disappointed for a $350 snub-nose 6 shot revolver? Should I demand better?

Thanks

Bad news first please-
 

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If you have a bad crown it would have affected accuracy. Point of impact no where close to point of aim. No you didn't damage the crown shooting it. You need a tool and lapping compound to smooth out a crown correctly. I imagine you could use some 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper, moist with clp or light oil, and do some finish sanding. Personally I wouldn't use a dremel for this. Is it a QA issue? Yes, is it worth a 12 week repair turnaround, maybe.. How does it shoot?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It seems to shoot okay. We did 7 yards at steel today. Wife shot all but the last two oddball rounds in the flat.
I am waiting on my email to sync phone/internet. Took a couple of pics PITA to do. Likely need to restart phone. Will post pics soon.
Don't think I would send anything for 12 weeks turnaround right now. That might be the ultimate mistake going through election day and Armageddon.
I also ended up tightening the screw that holds the cylinder release on. There is also some kind of rattle still that I can't find exactly.
I never picked apart any of my Glocks this bad.
 

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Sorry to hear about the concerns. I doubt we live that close to each other, but I am a part time gunsmith and work on Taurus and other revolvers. I could take a look at it, and advise. I live a few miles north of Maysville (far NW Ark). PM me if you want to drop by sometime. Labor is free on most revolver repairs for TA members, but I am not an FFL, so can't ship it to me.
 

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The crowns are done in the US so you know it's a half assed job. If the laws weren't so stupid and oppressive it would be top down 100 percent brazilian.
 

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It seems to shoot okay. We did 7 yards at steel today. Wife shot all but the last two oddball rounds in the flat.
I am waiting on my email to sync phone/internet. Took a couple of pics PITA to do. Likely need to restart phone. Will post pics soon.
Don't think I would send anything for 12 weeks turnaround right now. That might be the ultimate mistake going through election day and Armageddon.
I also ended up tightening the screw that holds the cylinder release on. There is also some kind of rattle still that I can't find exactly.
I never picked apart any of my Glocks this bad.
The crowns are done in the US so you know it's a half assed job. If the laws weren't so stupid and oppressive it would be top down 100 percent brazilian.
it should shoot much better than ok at 7 yards. I'm getting one hole groups every single time at 5 yards and I can get one hole groups at 7 yards on a good day.
And to answer your question about the rattle, it's the cylinder release. Tap it fast like an old-school nintendo A button and you will have found the sound.
 

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It looks more cosmetic than a serious problem, sanding may be a good option to make it look better.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
it should shoot much better than ok at 7 yards. I'm getting one hole groups every single time at 5 yards and I can get one hole groups at 7 yards on a good day.
And to answer your question about the rattle, it's the cylinder release. Tap it fast like an old-school nintendo A button and you will have found the sound.
More time behind the trigger is needed. Remember, I'm used to Glock pistols.
I have held the cylinder release and that's not it. I read somewhere it's the floating transfer bar. That makes sense. Or maybe a broken firing pin from too many dry fires at the LGS?
 

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More time behind the trigger is needed. Remember, I'm used to Glock pistols.
I have held the cylinder release and that's not it. I read somewhere it's the floating transfer bar. That makes sense. Or maybe a broken firing pin from too many dry fires at the LGS?
Fact!!!!!
 
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From your picture, that appears more than merely "cosmetic".

If it were mine, I would chuck up a piece of 1/2" brass rod in the lathe, turn a .25" radius on it (actually, make the end of the rod into a hemisphere), lube it with some very sticky oil (STP used to do the job) then dab on some 400 grit and (lathe turning slowly ( ~350/400 RPM) hold the muzzle against the end of the hemispherical rod, working the gun in different angles and orientations ( DON'T STOP moving, every different angle and orientation) until the brass had smoothed out the crown and made it uniform. (when you get it shaped right, you could use a finer grit if the appearance is not pleasing) If there were a distinct ridge where the new crown meets the old muzzle-profile and that ridge were objectionable to me, I'd repeat the process with a 3/4" brass rod just a bit to take the ridge off. Or just turn the end of the 1/2" rod to a radius of .375" and go with that - of course do not go nearly as deeply as with the .25" radius.

If the grit-size is a problem, just get valve-grinding compound - works the same way.

Clean the grit out of the gun thoroughly before test-firing.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm going to see if I can come up with a better idea.
Wonder if some rouge and polish by hand would do anything?
Perhaps a 1" wooden dowel with some crocus cloth taped to the end?

Yes more than cosmetic since I can run my finger over it and feel the marks. Actually rotating counterclockwise is rough and clockwise is not. Factory must have forgot to oil the reamer or this was last one produced end of day on Friday. The day QA left early.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Try a counterbore tool then some clover, better yet take it to a machine shop and have them fix it.
I used to work with a good machinist guy that I would trust completely with this project. Unfortunately that was about 15 years ago and he passed away. Killed by a dump truck driver on his way to work riding his Harley early one morning.
Again, I think I'll consult my inner being and previous knowledge bestowed but forgotten.
 

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Ram Rod,

That crown is no big deal. Agreed Taurus did a poor job but that is not unusual either.

Just get yourself some 400 grit sandpaper put a small piece on the crown and your thump on the sandpaper.

Work the barrel around and around until that crown is smooth and shiny.

Then you are in business.

That crown is more cosmetic then anything else.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ya, probably.
LOL

Okay, so an update of sorts. I did the thumb over sandpaper method previously mentioned. 600 grit then 1500 to finish. It's way better and almost smooth now even though the aesthetics didn't improve much.
Best thing is now that I messed with it doesn't seem to bother me as much. Likely call it good enough.
Thanks all for the support.

Yeah, I think sending it in could be a mistake. Might not ever get it back depending on the outcome Nov 3rd. Just sayin'
 
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