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Discussion Starter #1
Hey All,

I wondered what you folks thought of this idea. As most are aware, the reassembly of the TCP is a little weird at the point you're putting the takedown pin back in to complete the process. You have to go in at a bit of an angle to push down the pin retaining spring. I was thinking, "Hmm, if this had just a little bit of a slant to it, this would be much easier."

So, I was thinking of praying to the Dremel gods and buzzing off just a small amount of material to give the pin a better entry into the frame. What do you folks think?

Thanks =)
 

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Actually several have tapered the end of the pin slightly and have posted as such.
Now I have not heard of any ill effects from doing this, but i haven't done it as actually I don't have that much difficulty in removing or inserting the pin into the gun. maybe others can give you a reply that have done this.
 

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Hey All,

I wondered what you folks thought of this idea. As most are aware, the reassembly of the TCP is a little weird at the point you're putting the takedown pin back in to complete the process. You have to go in at a bit of an angle to push down the pin retaining spring. I was thinking, "Hmm, if this had just a little bit of a slant to it, this would be much easier."

So, I was thinking of praying to the Dremel gods and buzzing off just a small amount of material to give the pin a better entry into the frame. What do you folks think?

Thanks =)
I wouldn't recommend doing this. The Pin needs the retention and removing any material will only compromise this retention. And maybe possible warranty.

The easiest way for me is to actually start the pin but not to push all the way just flush.

2012-04-20_16-43-46_768

2012-04-20_16-44-35_767
Then I will Start my slide.

2012-04-20_16-45-22_138

Now i can rack the slide all the way back and push the pin completely.

2012-04-20_16-46-04_558
 

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I don't know if anyone had had this issue, but when removing the pin, it also dislocates the slide catch spring. WTH is that all about?
 

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I have filed a tiny bevel on one side of my TCP takedown pin, but I still have better success of installing the pin if I use the method shown by Sid1.
 

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I don't know if anyone had had this issue, but when removing the pin, it also dislocates the slide catch spring. WTH is that all about?
The slide catch spring is also used to retain the takedown pin. If the plastic grip-frame over the the spring comes away from the inner aluminum frame while prying out the takedown pin, I could see the spring popping out of place. I have to press on the plastic grip-frame at the same time as prying out the takedown pin, just because seeing the plastic bow out is irksome to me.
 

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The slide catch spring is also used to retain the takedown pin. If the plastic grip-frame over the the spring comes away from the inner aluminum frame while prying out the takedown pin, I could see the spring popping out of place. I have to press on the plastic grip-frame at the same time as prying out the takedown pin, just because seeing the plastic bow out is irksome to me.
I hear ya. I watched some videos of people taking it apart, and theirs shows no indication of it coming out. Maybe I've done something wrong, but being irked about it is an understatement.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sid, great idea. I can honestly say that never occurred to me. That'd be a good video for YouTube, as there are a few who complain about starting that pin.
 

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Sid, great idea. I can honestly say that never occurred to me. That'd be a good video for YouTube, as there are a few who complain about starting that pin.
Thanks when i first got mine it was a pain and it seemed you need three hands to put it back together.
I'm not a youtube video guy. But your more then welcome to use it and create one if you so choose.
Thanks Again
 

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When I got mine and the wifes 3 months ago I took the pins strait over to the grinder and 15 seconds later I had pins that were esay to re-install....Took care of that problem.
 

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I have to press on the plastic grip-frame at the same time as prying out the takedown pin, just because seeing the plastic bow out is irksome to me.
This is the biggest problem with disassembly for me...getting the pin out without scratching metal or bowing the polymer frame. I don't want to break anything!
 

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I wouldn't recommend doing this. The Pin needs the retention and removing any material will only compromise this retention. And maybe possible warranty.

The easiest way for me is to actually start the pin but not to push all the way just flush.

2012-04-20_16-43-46_768

2012-04-20_16-44-35_767
Then I will Start my slide.

2012-04-20_16-45-22_138

Now i can rack the slide all the way back and push the pin completely.

2012-04-20_16-46-04_558
I tryed that and the second time I did it was a breeze. Other than just about putting my eye out while removing the pin. it works great. I have neglected cleaning mine since it was such a bitch. Nothing against female dogs. Thank you for sharing that with us. You are one fart smeller. Meant to say smart feller. Thanks, mesadeldoug
 

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My early model A I would insert pin before sliding the slide on .. Sent that gun back to Taurus for extractor issues .Taurus sent me a new C series.. GREAT CS !! On the new gun the pin was a MAJOR PITA .Had to file pin. Old method of putting pin in first then installing slide won't work !! Slide will not clear pin on the inside rail, much tighter tolerances. 150 rounds down range all is good! Did have firing pin retainer pin start to pop out the top of slide. After range trip cleaned gun removed pin put a drop of thread locker (blue) in the hole put pin back in..Let you know after next range trip how things went...
 

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Yep...I do the same as sid1...just get it started and flush with the frame before putting the slide on. This works great. On mine it's darn near impossible with the slide and barrel already in position.
 
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