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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok I finished the trigger job, did it in three stages, 1st factory springs work on DA only smooth it up 2hrs

2nd New springs ten pound VS 14# work on SA action was difficult as the jig had trouble with holding the trigger. First I shorten the hammer notch from .030 to 0.023, still got creep 2hrs

3rd decide to RECUT trigger sear angle increase it. set up jig to match current angle and raise jig two clicks, try it not enough, set it up again and 2 more clicks recut. This time pretty good. So that apart again and jig up and polish with ceramic stone 1000 grit, stones to mirror polish. Very happy with this MIM works like A2 tool steel. 3hrs

4th Thinking pull, finally test fire, really smacks the primers large deep indent. Then I go after first stage trigger spring cut two coils off ten pound spring. Test fire wonderful, right up there with my Randy Lee DA trigger, beautiful timing, as good as my long hand S&W. SA is great no creep 2/3 # range. Also smoothed the cylinder opening drag, the latch is right out of a 1911 mag release, polish latch and cit two coils off, now jumps right open and latches easily. Perfect for fast reloads.

Now I'll the buy red dot mount and some wood grips. It is only 7 shot but I like better than the S&W and about $400 cheaper.Plus I like steel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Decide to go further on the springs and washers to center hammer and trigger to prevent frame rubbing. 713-050-001WB
Model #1 Power Sideplate Shim
Powers Custom, and the Wolff spring 969-171-900WB 669 Shooters Pak Mfr Part: 17190.
Cut two turns off hammer 10# spring, and 3 turns off 10# trigger return spring, Incredible nice DA pull.

 

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Very interesting! Do you have any photos of the work in progress?

Still getting good hard primer strikes with the latest springs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So bored today in between watching a slow moving storm and intermittent rain, what to do? The Loctite is dry let's test the 692 with TK custom moon clips, red dot and grips before range trip to zero. So I load up a TK CLIP with the aluminum cased federal 115gr 9mm ammo. Open the porch door and put 7 shots in the dirt, come back in to inspect primer strikes. Gun and sight functioned well, but I open the cylinder and push the ejector rod and it says no. I push harder, still no, so I take cylinder out, just a button push. Look thinks over and tap the ejector on the desk and finally they eject. I inspect the cylinders and they look fine just that nitride finish. Now I want to use Alum case ammo but sure won't be any fast reloads. So I get cylinder polishing hone brush out and the oil it needs and I slick up the cylinders. I had already bevel the edge, but now fresh moon just falls right in. Test again still STUCK, so I lube the cylinder with a little spray silicone, test, better but no prize. Test with brass, fly's right out. Now I know why my 1911 plate gun eject the alum cases about 1/2 the distance of the brass cases. So can't use alum case if you might need a fast reload.
 

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aluminum , being softer than brass, expands out and does not spring back like brass cases do. The softer case also deforms to the surface of the cylinders more and sticks to surface tighter. The black oxide finish may also provide a rougher surface for the aluminum to stick to? It will be interesting for you to compare the results with brass cases to the aluminum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The Judge and the 692 are the same.
RANGE REPORT Well things didn't go as planned. First the range usually has a front rest in the sign in shack where the 3x4 cardboard targets are but somebody misplaced it so only had gun bag to rest on. Also it was late and the sun was not glaring so I turned down the dot on the new vemon 6 moa red dot. The dot wasn't a dot but a dot with a line poking out at about 8 o'clock making about a 9 moa. It will be returned. For target I mounted six ten in paper plates with 1.5" square black tape in the middle. Incredibly the first shot at 26 yards hit black tape. Had to do no zeroing amazing, but four in the black and pulled three about 2-3" low. Then I ran seven more freehand double action, had three touching black and the rest inside 6 inches. Federal 115gr alum case 9mm.

Next I was zeroing in my CMMG guard pistol, aka brace with an EoTech 512, 9 inch barrel. Had changed the comp and new 512 it also had shadow dot when turned way down. I bought both of these off different vendors on Ebay, going to get a bunch of dots out the safe and see if its me or are two ebay dots seconds. It will be returned also, ARGH. naturally it shot tighter group 5 out 7 in the black, but center dot is 1 moa and was easier to hold steady with rest.

So I can't say I know how accurate it is but passed as a keeper, when new dots come in and I bring my old weighted cast iron, lead shot filled front bag and brighter sun I get down to finding my/gun limit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The Judge and the 692 are the same.
RANGE REPORT Well things didn't go as planned. First the range usually has a front rest in the sign in shack where the 3x4 cardboard targets are but somebody misplaced it so only had gun bag to rest on. Also it was late and the sun was not glaring so I turned down the dot on the new vemon 6 moa red dot. The dot wasn't a dot but a dot with a line poking out at about 8 o'clock making about a 9 moa. It will be returned. For target I mounted six ten in paper plates with 1.5" square black tape in the middle. Incredibly the first shot at 26 yards hit black tape. Had to do no zeroing amazing, but four in the black and pulled three about 2-3" low. Then I ran seven more freehand double action, had three touching black and the rest inside 6 inches. Federal 115gr alum case 9mm.

Next I was zeroing in my CMMG guard pistol, aka brace with an EoTech 512, 9 inch barrel. Had changed the comp and new 512 it also had shadow dot when turned way down. I bought both of these off different vendors on Ebay, going to get a bunch of dots out the safe and see if its me or are two ebay dots seconds. It will be returned also, ARGH. naturally it shot tighter group 5 out 7 in the black, but center dot is 1 moa and was easier to hold steady with out a rest.

So I can't say I know how accurate it is but passed as a keeper, when new dots come in and I bring my old weighted cast iron, lead shot filled front bag and brighter
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well I just got done taking pics of my red dots and the problem is my left eye, the right eye that had cataract removed sees the dots just fine. I'm a lefty, so I try in bright sun and see the smaller iris will help the problem, if not my days of tiny groups is gone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Latest update, dots are OK, my eye in the low light dilated and some astigmatism showed up. In full daylight today at first match dot small and crisp on low setting. New ammo problem TC custom moon clips and federal champion aluminum case wouldn't allow cylinder to close. While use Federal 115 grain champion brass case, had two bullets unseat from recoil and dump powder on ejection of cases. More testing required
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
tried some Winchester steel case, bullet stays put, but the fired cases stick badly and you have to tap the ejector rod on the bench to get loose. So I got some Winchester 9mm 115gr range ammo brass and bullet stays seated. However the Winchester primer are so much harder than the federals I had go from 8# to 11# hammer spring for reliable ignition. As I'm typing this it just dawned on me the steel case were Winchester and they all fired with the light hammer spring. So is Winchester using different primers ? Why? Also TC custom moon clips, very nicely made but the edges are really sharp and catch on brass rims and limit the amount of wobble, so sometimes you moon clips won't just drop in. Had to polish all the edges dremel/cratex.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So I toke so federal champion brass 115gr rounds and ran them through a Lee taper crimp die and test fired and they stayed put, this way I go back to the soft primer low trigger pull spring, also polished the TK custom moonclips much better.
 

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Ok I finished the trigger job, did it in three stages, 1st factory springs work on DA only smooth it up 2hrs

2nd New springs ten pound VS 14# work on SA action was difficult as the jig had trouble with holding the trigger. First I shorten the hammer notch from .030 to 0.023, still got creep 2hrs

3rd decide to RECUT trigger sear angle increase it. set up jig to match current angle and raise jig two clicks, try it not enough, set it up again and 2 more clicks recut. This time pretty good. So that apart again and jig up and polish with ceramic stone 1000 grit, stones to mirror polish. Very happy with this MIM works like A2 tool steel. 3hrs

4th Thinking pull, finally test fire, really smacks the primers large deep indent. Then I go after first stage trigger spring cut two coils off ten pound spring. Test fire wonderful, right up there with my Randy Lee DA trigger, beautiful timing, as good as my long hand S&W. SA is great no creep 2/3 # range. Also smoothed the cylinder opening drag, the latch is right out of a 1911 mag release, polish latch and cit two coils off, now jumps right open and latches easily. Perfect for fast reloads.

Now I'll the buy red dot mount and some wood grips. It is only 7 shot but I like better than the S&W and about $400 cheaper.Plus I like steel.
I just installed the 17190 Wolff springs. 11# hammer ( I was concerned about ignition with less than 11#) and 10# for the return spring. I did not cut any turns. DA is slightly better but not much better.
SA is incredible. Crisp relase. I don't know what I should do to improve the DA pull. Any ideas?
 

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I installed 10# Wolff springs. There's definitely a difference in the pull. I didn't think the factory springs were that hard until a RSO tried to measure the pull at last week's steel shoot. It was off the scale! LoL

Looking forward to the next steel shoot night.

Sent from my moto e5 cruise using Tapatalk
 

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I just installed the 17190 Wolff springs. 11# hammer ( I was concerned about ignition with less than 11#) and 10# for the return spring. I did not cut any turns. DA is slightly better but not much better.
SA is incredible. Crisp relase. I don't know what I should do to improve the DA pull. Any ideas?
The major problem that comes from lightening the mainspring up anymore is that you might introduce light primer strikes. If you're asking to just improve the DA pull, I recommend the hammer/trigger shims. On my 627, 3 shims a side on the trigger and 2 a side on the hammer really improved the trigger feel. I also have the 11# wolf mainspring on. I like it.

Note that there are no aftermarket extended firing pins, so lightening up the DA pull too much will provide much more problems.
 
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