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Today I decided to replace the springs on a new 605 Protector Poly won at a Friends of NRA banquet. It was fired 5 times prior to being cracked open.

After searching here for instructions and finding none I'll offer this little writeup.

Tip #1: Do NOT remove the trigger and cylinder stop screws prior to breaking the gun apart. This caused a whole lot of parts to pop out that did not really need to be touched and a good long search because I didn't disassemble in a bag.DOH!

Tip #2: The Parts Diagram on page 18 is quite helpful, look at it first and you won't do the mistake referenced in Tip #1.
http://www.taurususa.com/pdf/polymer_revolvers.pdf


Steps as best I remember with the tricks found to make it happen.
*Reassembly was attempted dozens of times from different angles and methods as parts and springs would fall or shoot out. Eventually the below method was found to work best for me.

1. Verify gun is unloaded.
2. Remove grip.
3. Cock hammer, place pin through hole.
** L shaped pin works best with short leg through hole. Hammer spring cannot be removed until halves broken apart.
4. Remove the hammer pivot nut (left side, slotted nut).
5. Remove the Hammer Pivot.
6. Remove Hammer.
7. Remove the Thumb Piece.
8. Remove Upper and Lower Grip Screws using your safety lock key.
9. Tip over and remove the nuts.
10. Inside a large ziplock separate the front and grip halves.
** Best accomplished by pulling the trigger as you pull forward and up then down. Hard to explain but does not require force.
11. Polish and buff parts as desired.
12. Replace hammer spring. Steps similar to metal revolvers except it is contained by the main spring support.
13. Remove Trigger Spring Swivel.
14. Replace trigger return spring. I had to trim 1-1.5 coils off the Wolff spring.
** Due to the main spring support and lack of access from the side, use a 1/4"-3/8" piece of metal that will not bend for stop pin/wire. Only put through far enough to catch on the far side leaving a long end.
15. Turn pin/wire so it is perpendicular to the nubs on the trigger spring swivel.
16. Put trigger spring swivel back into main spring support with long end of wire/pin pointing up. Don't place it in the trigger yet, just have it hanging.
17. Swing cylinder out (it just seems to help keep the bolt in place in the next steps)
18. Check for what parts you have loose. If the following fell out, put them back now. Hand, transfer bar and bolt (wait on the bolt spring)
** The transfer bar and bolt require holding the gun left side down but holding the transfer bar on the trigger. You will want to do the next steps with the left side down holding the bottom of the transfer bar.
19. Put halves partly back together.
** works best to pull trigger to back and move main spring support forward.
20. When halves are 1/4~ish left to close, put trigger spring center pin into proper recess of trigger.
21. Move halves a little closer together.
22. Insert bolt spring into hole in back of bolt. Compress spring with tool to get into groove of rear receiver.
** I put a dental pick in one end of the spring to insert it into the bolt and then same tool to compress the spring. This is where having the cylinder out really helps.
23. Put halves completely together.
24. Insert upper and lower grip screws into the frame but don't tighten.
25. Close cylinder.
26. Attach thumb piece finger tight. You no longer need to hold it left side down.
27. Pull trigger to rear. Remove wire/pin from top. A smaller and or longer needle nose is needed to do this easily.
** Using whatever you have handy to wedge between the grip and the main spring center pin to kick it away from the wire/pin you are trying to grab.
28. Keep the tool as a wedge in place, insert hammer. Verify the head went into the correct place on the hammer.
29. Insert Hammer Pivot, don't worry about the nut yet. Remove tool used as wedge.
30. Pull hammer back, remove stop pin/wire in main spring center pin.
31. Function test single and double action. Any issues, determine problem, fix as necessary.
32. Insert nuts into recesses for upper and lower frame pins, tighten using key.
33. Tighten thumb piece screw.
34. Tighten Hammer Pivot Nut.
35. Replace Grip, tighten grip screw.

I was using leftover parts so had a 9lb trigger return spring and 9lb hammer spring. The pull is much reduced and much smoother. With it being such a pain to work on I wish I'd have had a 6.5lb trigger return spring but oh well.

Sorry no pics.

The polymer guns are nowhere near as easy to work on as the metal guns. In fact I would steer folks towards a metal 605 vs the polymer just for this fact.
 

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I was using leftover parts so had a 9lb trigger return spring and 9lb hammer spring. The pull is much reduced and much smoother. With it being such a PITA to work on I wish I'd have had a 6.5lb trigger return spring but oh well.
Where did you get the lighter trigger springs?

Thanks in advance for any information.
 

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Is the 85 like the 605? Is there any way to get some pics of this. I took the wifes 85 apart to smooth some things out and having a hard to time getting it back together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You would think the 85 Poly would be similar to the 605 Poly but can't say for sure.

I have no pictures and will not tear it apart to take them.
 

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I see why you wouldn't be willing! I just used this guide to take down a poly protector and install the lighter springs. Buddy of mine bought it new for $400, got the reduced power springs (hammer and 9&6.5# trigger) and took it to a smith who said the bottom screw was stripped. After seeing what PITA they are to take apart, he sold it to me for $250 including the springs. Took us 3 seconds to see that "smith" was clueless as the screw came out just fine. After trying to install the 6.5# spring and it shooting across my basement, I went with the 9# with 1.5 coils clipped. Reassembly was a nightmare as it took me about 10 tries. Following these instructions to a T, I got it together a bunch of times but had about 3x where the trigger and or hammer wouldn't move all the way to the rear and about 2x that it would work DA but on SA it wouldn't stay cocked. Got it apart again and saw the strut was bent. If I remember correctly it was slightly curved stock but I ended up bending it more "straight" and now she works mechanically like a charm. Haven't fired it yet but plan to today. Only that will tell if I haven't put something back wrong. Great instructions and I see why no one is willing to make a vid/pictorial. Any questions, however, feel free to PM me as I've been through it and wish someone had offered the same for me. Good luck guys!
 

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I am new here and trying to change the trigger spring on my wife's new M85 poly. I am a Glock guy myself, but I am having some difficulty getting the hammer pivot nut off. What do I need to get it off?
 

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bbauman: I used your instructions to change the trigger & hammer springs on my protector poly 605. I could not have done it without them. I thank you very much for the info. I had the most trouble breaking the grip section from the front end and getting it back together functioning. It really lowered the trigger pull. Not sure of the correct lbs but it is a lot lighter than it was. From about 20 feet away I can keep 5 DA shots in the black. I'm using Hornady FTX 110 grain and it shoots really good with a light recoil. Will be trying some of the 90 grain when I can find them. I am using it as my carry weapon now, but it may become my wife's when I get it tuned up and find the ideal ammo. Thank you again for the thread. Anyone with a 605 poly needs a copy in the factory box.
 

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Thank you BBauman. The Polymer 605 was a disappointment due to extreme trigger pull. Thanks to your excellent advice, I have a completely new gun, (Wolff springs). I couldn't have reassembled the gun without your step by step instruction. Thank you very much, great job.
 
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