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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Went to the range for the second time today and put 200rds of 38 special and 20rds of 357mag through the gun. Grouping with the 38 specials was very solid. Shot 15rds of 38 special with 3.0gn of trail boss and 125 lead bullet, 35rds of 4.0gn, 25 357mag with 3.5gnd and 25 with 4.0gns. shot another 100rds of ppu 158gn swc and 20 rds of 158gn federal magnums.

Shot the first 200 38 specials and the checked all the screws on the gun everything was tight and super clean. No lead residue or heavy fouling.

Shot the last 20 rds of 357 mag and the screws started to loosen up. The 357mag were very dirty and even had some thing hit me on my upper lip and leave a little scratch.

The 200rds of 38special were super enjoyable and fun. The first 10 rds of 357mag hurt. Then I realized I was holding the gun more with my thumb than my palm and resituated my grip and the final 10 we're good and enjoyable.

The gloves this time around made a big difference, my hand did not get scraped but my hand is sore after the magnum rounds.

So far the gun is performing flawlessly no complaints!
 

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Slow powders with the heavier bullet weights are the magnum way especially in snubbies. I shoot a 140 JHP over 17 grains of 2400. That's a half grain under max in the Speer number 11 manual. It fires 'em at over 1300 fps/550 ft lbs.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Slow powders with the heavier bullet weights are the magnum way especially in snubbies. I shoot a 140 JHP over 17 grains of 2400. That's a half grain under max in the Speer number 11 manual. It fires 'em at over 1300 fps/550 ft lbs.
That sounds like my hand will be hurting for a while haha. defenitly for defense Was thinking of using a 140gn hornady ftx bullet with h110 for personal defense eventually once I get proficent at reloading and can get my hands on different powder lol no where locally sells powder that I have been able to find. The trail boss with 125gn lead bullets felt like I was plinking with 22lr was very fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Cleaned the gun last night and inspected, everything checked good, cylinder was solid no excess play.Did have to scrub the whole gun with hoppes from all the fouling, The barrel did have heavy carbon fouling toward the end which explains why it was starting to give me keyholing on my target. Other than that it is pretty solid. The range master was surprised it was even rated for 357 magnum lol
 

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Range masters are usually gun biased. He probably was surprised it didn't blow your hand off just because it was a Taurus. :rolleyes:

For getting powder fouling off the front of a cylinder, nothing better than Break Free Powder Blast. That stuff is awesome. :D I doubt powder fouling caused any key holing. That's more likely leading of a lead bullet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Range masters are usually gun biased. He probably was surprised it didn't blow your hand off just because it was a Taurus. :rolleyes:

For getting powder fouling off the front of a cylinder, nothing better than Break Free Powder Blast. That stuff is awesome. :D I doubt powder fouling caused any key holing. That's more likely leading of a lead bullet.

Lol funny thing is he could not tell the brand. But I do agree he told me I should have a all steel smith lol


Is key holing very common with lead bullets? Could it be because of the charge? Only began happening with the 158gn ppu 38 specials and federal mags
 

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That sounds like my hand will be hurting for a while haha. defenitly for defense Was thinking of using a 140gn hornady ftx bullet with h110 for personal defense eventually once I get proficent at reloading and can get my hands on different powder lol no where locally sells powder that I have been able to find. The trail boss with 125gn lead bullets felt like I was plinking with 22lr was very fun.
I don't think you'll like the muzzle-blast with H110, and it will lose a serious amount of velocity from the 2" barrel. 2400 burns faster and AA #9 is similar in performance but it's a spherical powder. Honestly, I'd go to a faster powder than that like AA #7 or #5 if you have them. I like True Blue a great deal for short barrel Magnums. It won't show the highest velocity in the data, but drop to a 2" barrel and things change in a hurry. For loads that were chrono'd in 4" barrels or longer, True Blue will hold closer to the velocity ratings, and muzzle-blast is far less. You probably won't find data for Silhouette, but at Steve's Pages he listed data from Winchester when it was sold as WAP. I just fired loads with 110 gr. WIN JHPs over Silhouette in .357 on Friday and they did quite well.

Also be aware that the 140 FTX has a longer shank, so when you crimp into the cannelure you're gonna have more bullet in the case, and pressure will run higher due to more engagement with the rifling. Not that I wouldn't do that myself, but I would definitely make the first loads with Start Charges.;)
 

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Lol funny thing is he could not tell the brand. But I do agree he told me I should have a all steel smith lol


Is key holing very common with lead bullets? Could it be because of the charge? Only began happening with the 158gn ppu 38 specials and federal mags
Yes, leading gets bad enough it will cause the bullets to key hole. And, those federal mags, if they're not jacketed, likely are the culprit. But, I've had +P level .38s with soft lead bullets lead the barrel pretty bad. I like to end any shooting session with lead bullets with a cylinder or two of jacketed stuff to get the lead out. I've got some 130 FMJ .38 just for that purpose. :D I have his new wire brush thing from Outters, came with a brush and mop and this weird looking brush for getting out lead. I've not had a chance to try that brush, though.

If your barrel is leaded and you look down the bore with a bore scope, it will be obvious. :D

The way to stop leading in a cast bullet is either to increase antimony or tin of the alloy or just get a gas check style mold and gas check 'em. That stops leading for at pistol/revolver velocities. I push a 165 grain cast SWC with gas check to nearly 1900 fps out of my 20" Rossi carbine without a hint of leading. I load that bullet in front of Li'l Gun just for the carbine. The powder is slow and has a rep for scorching forcing cones and revolver frames.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes, leading gets bad enough it will cause the bullets to key hole. And, those federal mags, if they're not jacketed, likely are the culprit. But, I've had +P level .38s with soft lead bullets lead the barrel pretty bad. I like to end any shooting session with lead bullets with a cylinder or two of jacketed stuff to get the lead out. I've got some 130 FMJ .38 just for that purpose. :D I have his new wire brush thing from Outters, came with a brush and mop and this weird looking brush for getting out lead. I've not had a chance to try that brush, though.

If your barrel is leaded and you look down the bore with a bore scope, it will be obvious. :D

The way to stop leading in a cast bullet is either to increase antimony or tin of the alloy or just get a gas check style mold and gas check 'em. That stops leading for at pistol/revolver velocities. I push a 165 grain cast SWC with gas check to nearly 1900 fps out of my 20" Rossi carbine without a hint of leading. I load that bullet in front of Li'l Gun just for the carbine. The powder is slow and has a rep for scorching forcing cones and revolver frames.

The federal stuff was semi jacketed soft point. I have some berrys bullets I could load up but only have trail boss and am not sure how well it does with plated bullets or if plated bullets would do the same thing a jacketed bullet would.
 
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