Here, cross yourself and close your eyes....It only took me useage from 1986-1987 to get used to the refugly polymer pioneer "GLOCK".
However it may take me a decade + to get used polymer revolvers.
I'm with the "tough to get used to polymer revolvers" crowd. I've owned a couple of poly semis, and I'm pretty fold of my XD. But polymer revolvers are just harder to get used to for some reason. Maybe part of that reason is that from what I've read, polymer revolvers are right on the "too light" line. Too light means they kick too much, and as already noted that can mean other issues like bullets slipping crimp.Here, cross yourself and close your eyes....
I had an initial hard time coming to grips with the concept, but it offers advantages. The gun is reasonably priced and LIGHT and easy to carry and shoot. You can't get a .357 this light for this price. Either it's steel or it's pricey titanium or scandium. The modern tough polymer is a fantastic material and a break through IMHO, at least for magnum carry revolvers.
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I put a heavy roll crimp on my loads. I've fired about 30 cast gas checked 165SWCs over 14.5 grains 2400, Skeeter Skelton's old standby load, pretty warm load. I had no problems, but the load shoots WAY high. The gun shoots to POA with a 140 JHP Speer over 17 grains 2400 and with a .38 wadcutter/2.7 grains Bullseye. So, I practice with the .38 wadcutters and carry the magnums. This keeps stresses off the gun, too. I don't wish to run a constant diet of hot .357 through it. The 140 grain load clocks 1333 fps/552 ft lbs from the 2" barrel and shoots into 3" at 25 yards off the bench.Native Texan have you ran many 158 grain full load .357's through it?I had the Scandi Smith and bullets jumped crimp.