24/7 Pro LS holster
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
I dont have a reply, but i was hoping to get some more light shed on this topic by bringing it back up to the top. i have also been searching for a holster for my 24/7 LS. It has been difficult finding 24/7 holsters in general but when i do, it seems that they have multiple guns listed that should fit. IE -Fobus has the RU97 for the ruger P90, 93, 94, 95, 97 but also says it fits the 24/7.
Does this mean that the 24/7 has the same frame as the the Ruger handguns listed above or does it depend on the maker? The holsters I was looking at were all kydex (formed to the gun itself) with an open end. Is there a problem with a portion of the gun sticking out the bottom?
Forgive me if these are basic questions, im just trying to find alternatives for all of us LS guys out there
Does this mean that the 24/7 has the same frame as the the Ruger handguns listed above or does it depend on the maker? The holsters I was looking at were all kydex (formed to the gun itself) with an open end. Is there a problem with a portion of the gun sticking out the bottom?
Forgive me if these are basic questions, im just trying to find alternatives for all of us LS guys out there
I have bought the Fobus RU97 and I expect it in the mail today or tomorrow. I asked Fobus if they had one to fit the Long Slide and they didnt know what I was talking about, and told me that the RU97 is the only offering they have that fits the 24/7.
When I get the holster I will check it out and take a picture for you.
Thanks for the reply.
Tom
When I get the holster I will check it out and take a picture for you.
Thanks for the reply.
Tom
Yes, I was hoping it would have come yesterday but it didnt show up. I have to leave town today, but will be back Friday evening and it should be here by then. I will post as soon as I can.
I have several Fobus holsters and they are cheap and well made. I like them and dont feel bad about scrathing it up during PPC matches and other action shooting. I prefer leather for carry though.
I have several Fobus holsters and they are cheap and well made. I like them and dont feel bad about scrathing it up during PPC matches and other action shooting. I prefer leather for carry though.
OK, the bad news is here. Gun fits tight and just sticks out 3/4". That wont work for me. I dont want to be dragging my muzzle every time I sit down.
I really dont think this is a good holster for the 24/7 of any size. It drags on all the edges. It was obviously designed for another gun, like the Ruger, it is not adjustable, and it took a lot of strength to get it out of the holster.
Keep looking!
Let me know what you find.
![]()
![]()
I really dont think this is a good holster for the 24/7 of any size. It drags on all the edges. It was obviously designed for another gun, like the Ruger, it is not adjustable, and it took a lot of strength to get it out of the holster.
Keep looking!
Let me know what you find.
Joined
·
19,994 Posts
Is the Trigger Guard Retention point on this holster the main issue with it being too tight? If so, perhaps some surgical alteration could fix that. I have one on order for one of my .45 Witnesses. I use the Fobus HK-1 for my PT945, but I think that the Trigger Guard area on that one would be too small for a 24/7.
The trigger guard retainer is a difficult part, but the holster tapers toward the muzzle slightly also and it is tight and rubs on the four corners of the slide and accessory rail. Generally it is not a good fit. But it will go in and stay there.
I have thought about cutting the dimples on the trigger guard retainer, but I think I will just put it in my swap meet box unless someone wnats to buy it $20 delivered in lower 48.
I have a Fobus for my Sig 226 and 1911 and they are both a perfect fit and great to draw from. This one is niether.
I have thought about cutting the dimples on the trigger guard retainer, but I think I will just put it in my swap meet box unless someone wnats to buy it $20 delivered in lower 48.
I have a Fobus for my Sig 226 and 1911 and they are both a perfect fit and great to draw from. This one is niether.
Joined
·
8 Posts
I have the pt-24/7 also have the Ruger 91dc and the fobus holster RU97 will work for the 24/7 but it is rather tight to reholster and when you unholster your weapon you really need to snap it out hard and fast but it will work.I also have a Bianci holster for the 24/7 its a Paddle style I forget the # and size but size 15 comes to mind and that holster fits pretty good.
Holsters are a definite issue for these guns. I have a 24/7 Pro in 45ACP and couldn't find a suitable concealment holster for it.
My absolute favorite concealment holster is the Comptac C.T.A.K. They make it for the 24/7 but not in 45. They intend to make one but not for about 6 months.
That didn't suit me so I decided to make my own. The molding is not as crisp as Comptac's but it works just the same. It came out great!
The point of all of this is that if I can build my own kydex holster so can you. The only tools I used were scissors, a Dremel tool (cutoff wheel and sanding wheel) and some 600 grit sandpaper. All the hardware was found at my local hardware store. Kydex and the foam for molding can be found at most knife making supply houses. The only thing I bought were the belt clips. (ordered from Comptac) The whole thing cost me about $20, and that's because I bought clips instead of making them.
I am not all that handy so if I can make a useful holster anyone can do it!! I'll try to get a picture up sometime.
My absolute favorite concealment holster is the Comptac C.T.A.K. They make it for the 24/7 but not in 45. They intend to make one but not for about 6 months.
That didn't suit me so I decided to make my own. The molding is not as crisp as Comptac's but it works just the same. It came out great!
The point of all of this is that if I can build my own kydex holster so can you. The only tools I used were scissors, a Dremel tool (cutoff wheel and sanding wheel) and some 600 grit sandpaper. All the hardware was found at my local hardware store. Kydex and the foam for molding can be found at most knife making supply houses. The only thing I bought were the belt clips. (ordered from Comptac) The whole thing cost me about $20, and that's because I bought clips instead of making them.
I am not all that handy so if I can make a useful holster anyone can do it!! I'll try to get a picture up sometime.
The first thing I did was to make a very rough measurement and cut out a square of kydex to wrap around the pistol.
Then I put the kydex in the oven and heated it until it was floppy. (250 deg) I quickly removed the kydex and placed it on my foam that was on the floor. I put the pistol on th kydex, wrapped it around and put the other piece of foam on top of it. (foam is backed in wood to make it rigid) Then I stood on the whole thing until it cooled off.
I traced out the areas that I wanted to cut away, removed the pistol and and cut close to the tracings with a Dremel cut off wheel. I then used a Dremel sanding wheel to do the final material removal and shaping.
On the open ind of the holster the leather tab is sandwiched between the kydex and thick rubber washers It is screwed together with machine screws, aluminum finish washers and some fasteners that I don't know the name of. They have a threaded post coming out of a flat base. Around the edges of the base are 3 prongs that stick up. Pre drill your holes then heat up the prongs just enough so that they will stick into the kydex. Wait for it to cool and screw it together.
The closed side of the holster is a little trickier. I cut out a rectangle of kydex heated it and folded it in half. then I molded it to the holster. After cooling I trimmed it up and cleaned up the edges. I used my Dremel sanding wheel to rough up the interior of the tab where it contacts the holster. Then I roughed up the holster where it contacts the tab. I also drilled 2 holes on each "leg" of the tab also. It was all epoxyed together with Locktite plastics epoxy and allowed to set up. Then the leather tab was screwed into the tab using the same hardware.
The belt tabs are held on to the leather tabs with hex screws and those locking threaded posts. Rubber washers are sandwiched in there to give it tension.
All kydex edges were sanded with 600grit sandpaper to smooth things out.
All hardware on the back of the holster is covered in Dr. scholls moleskin for comfort.
When worn in the pants but over the shirt the whole rig practically disappears it is so comfortable. With the shirt tucked it is still very comfortable and it completely disappears visually.
Due to the rubber washers inside the holster it is adjustable for retaining tension. The gun will not move until you remove it. It is very thin, very light, very comfortable and fairly easy to make.
Like I said, if I can do it anyone can!
Then I put the kydex in the oven and heated it until it was floppy. (250 deg) I quickly removed the kydex and placed it on my foam that was on the floor. I put the pistol on th kydex, wrapped it around and put the other piece of foam on top of it. (foam is backed in wood to make it rigid) Then I stood on the whole thing until it cooled off.
I traced out the areas that I wanted to cut away, removed the pistol and and cut close to the tracings with a Dremel cut off wheel. I then used a Dremel sanding wheel to do the final material removal and shaping.
On the open ind of the holster the leather tab is sandwiched between the kydex and thick rubber washers It is screwed together with machine screws, aluminum finish washers and some fasteners that I don't know the name of. They have a threaded post coming out of a flat base. Around the edges of the base are 3 prongs that stick up. Pre drill your holes then heat up the prongs just enough so that they will stick into the kydex. Wait for it to cool and screw it together.
The closed side of the holster is a little trickier. I cut out a rectangle of kydex heated it and folded it in half. then I molded it to the holster. After cooling I trimmed it up and cleaned up the edges. I used my Dremel sanding wheel to rough up the interior of the tab where it contacts the holster. Then I roughed up the holster where it contacts the tab. I also drilled 2 holes on each "leg" of the tab also. It was all epoxyed together with Locktite plastics epoxy and allowed to set up. Then the leather tab was screwed into the tab using the same hardware.
The belt tabs are held on to the leather tabs with hex screws and those locking threaded posts. Rubber washers are sandwiched in there to give it tension.
All kydex edges were sanded with 600grit sandpaper to smooth things out.
All hardware on the back of the holster is covered in Dr. scholls moleskin for comfort.
When worn in the pants but over the shirt the whole rig practically disappears it is so comfortable. With the shirt tucked it is still very comfortable and it completely disappears visually.
Due to the rubber washers inside the holster it is adjustable for retaining tension. The gun will not move until you remove it. It is very thin, very light, very comfortable and fairly easy to make.
Like I said, if I can do it anyone can!
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
