[Steve24/7]

I'm a new gun owner. I've shot at the range before(rentals and friends guns) but i've never had to clean a gun. I made myself good at the take down and assembly of the gun. My questions are:
1. When do I clean, at the range or when I get back home(about 10 mins)
2. Which parts do I clean, and with what. I have the nylon brush that came with the gun, as well as a metal brush, a spear tipped jag and some thing that's slotted. cleaning patches, cleaner and oil.
3. Where do I put the oil.

 

[PisnNapalm]

Check this site out. It's not a 24/7 but it's still educational.

http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/edu47.htm

I use Rem Oil or CLP for cleaning usually. Some people like to use WD40 for cleaning. I lubricate my 24/7 using Hoppes #9 oil.

 

[shoot73]

I agree, that helps and read your book also. It helped me, because i'm also new to handguns

 

[Steve24/7]

I use Rem Oil or CLP for cleaning usually. Some people like to use WD40 for cleaning. I lubricate my 24/7 using Hoppes #9 oil.

what does everyone think about wd-40 for cleaning?

I agree, that helps and read your book also. It helped me, because i'm also new to handguns

I don't know if I got a different manual, but mine does not go into much detail about cleaning other than make sure it's clean. The manual details the takedown and assembly, but not much about cleaning.

 

[jwc007]

what does everyone think about wd-40 for cleaning? I don't know if I got a different manual, but mine does not go into much detail about cleaning other than make sure it's clean. The manual details the takedown and assembly, but not much about cleaning.

WD-40? Not very much! It'll do in a pinch, but you would be much better off with other solvents! Because the 24/7 has some polymer components, you have to use a solvent friendly to those components! Gunscrubber makes a Poly friendly spray solvent that totally evaporates from the gun that I recommend! I have also used Windex and water rinse on the Poly parts. Be carefull to fully dry them with the latter! Simple Green has also been recommended by some, but you have to be careful with it, as it will remove anodizing from aluminum parts. (A friend of mine soaked his PT92's Frame and AR15 upper assembly in Simple Green for a week and needed them completely refinished! It wasn't a pretty sight!)

Barrel and Slide Only:
Charcoal Lighter Fluid and PB Blaster make very good bore solvents as well as the regular Commercial Bore solvents. Remove either from the Gun Parts with Gun Scrubber or an equivalent non-Chlorinated Disc Brake Cleaner. Also, some Disc Brake Cleaners are not Poly Part friendly!

 

[Taurus24740cal]

in this article posted above, the guy puts wd-40 down the barrel. but the guy at the gun shop told me to not get any oil down the barrel. which is correct?

also, do you need to coat stainless steel slides with an oil?

 

[Steve24/7]

As far as I have learned, one should have a slight film of oil inside the barrel to prevent any oxidation. When going to the range, one should put a patch down the barrel before firing to clear out the barrel. That's how I work, I like knowing that my vulnerable metal surfaces have some protection, and as a home defense gun, I don't think that a slight film of oil will affect my shot and even if it does I have 15 more coming. Plus, I'm looking at a remington 870 12 guage for my first line of defense, but that's off the topic, just me obsessing about more guns.

As far as the wd-40 goes, I've heard that it could be used for the exterior metal surfaces for rust protection because of a wax coating that occurs when it dries. but due to the waxy build-up, should not be used to lubricate the interior gun parts ie. the slide, recoil spring, barrel, or anyting inside the slide.

 

[Doc S]

I use solvents and cleaners designed for weapons on my weapons.
I usually use CLP. It works to clean and lubricate.

As for never let oil touch your barrel, that's up to you, but I always put a light film on all metal parts (including the barrel).

God Bless,
Doc S

 

[Taurus24740cal]

just to clarify.. i meant oil IN ur barrel. just so we are all on the same page.

 

[stephpd]

I use solvents and cleaners designed for weapons on my weapons.
I usually use CLP. It works to clean and lubricate.

+1 spend the extra money on stuff made for guns. NO WD-40 ever. Will do more harm then good. I use Hoopes #9for cleaning the inside of the barrel. Weapon shield for lubricant and protectant. Breakfree clp if I can't find the weapon shield.

Weapon shield is from the guy who invented F-10 clp. For whatever reasons he left F-10 and started a new company. Made some changes to the formula and now sell this new product. Can't be found everywhere yet but the guy sounds like he knows his stuff. Check out all posts by gcfennell over at The Firing Line. The guy's a chemist and a shooter. Knows more about barrier film technology then all of us combined. Makes a great product, I just prefer something else, designed specifically, for cleaning the barrel. But it does work as a cleaner too.

 

[texastaurusguy]

Hoppes #9 brutha. Great cleaner. Just wrap the little cotton cloth around the steel brush, dip it into the Hoppes, then run it thru the barrel, back and forth, over and over....then repeat.....then repeat again.....until it comes out pretty clean. Then, I use Hoppes Lubricant and wet down another cloth with this, then run it thru the barrel a couple of times. Then, use the #9 again and just wipe down the working parts of the gun, the recoil spring assembly, slide, everything that moves.....don't go stingy on the Hoppes, get the gun CLEAN.

 

[yellowhousejake]

Been reading up to see about lubing a automatic (old wheelgun guy here). I would concur with the thoughts about WD-40, only good for tapping aluminum and drying distributor caps. I've used Hoppes #9 for cleaning and I lube/wipe down with VVL 800 (mil spec light weapons oil) or non detergent 30w. 30 years, no problems in any weather, even long term storage like 4 years.

As to rust prevention, we muzzle loaders have a strong aversion to rust since we all clean with hot soapy water. For a good test on rust preventatives check this test out. Interesting stuff.

http://www.ctmuzzleloaders.com/ctml_experiments/corrosion/corrosion2.html

I've not tried Ballistol, plan to some day. I noticed a lot of mention of CLP so I bought some to try.

DAve