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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone,
I am in the process of tuning my 24/7 G2 fire control for competition and have to say I am amazed at how Taurus managed to fit all the features they did into a DA/SA striker... that being said, it's terrible. In any case, I finally worked through all the grinding and polishing to make the trigger as smooth as possible. There are still multiple steps in the trigger function as you can feel the spring engage on the firing pin block and when the trigger bar starts riding the disconnector arc, but at least it's not gritty and the trigger bar doesn't interact with the slide catch any more.

The last phase was tuning the firing pin spring (yes, I know what you're thinking, but it's the only way to reduce the pull weight on the G2 as it is mechanized). After a few iterations of polishing the spring and function testing, I seem to have found the absolute minimum spring weight required, because I started getting light primer strikes about 60% of the time. The spring was still strong enough to eventually get a good hit, but sometimes required as many as 4 trigger pulls. I've over extended the spring to get the weight I need for consistent function, but I don't want to have to service it every hundred or so rounds when the spring starts working down to its normal length.

Now I am in need of a new spring. Unfortunately, firing pin springs are in the Taurus "restricted catalog" so they don't want to send me a $3 part in the mail. Instead, Taurus wants to charge me $100 and 6 weeks to replace the firing pin spring for me... Thank you for the help Taurus. A Glock 17 firing pin springs seem an obvious choice for replacement but I don't own one myself so can't check the size.

> So, does anyone know of an equivalent spring I can throw in for replacement?

> Or, does anyone happen to have a Glock handy and could I trouble you to caliper your spring?
 

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I wouldn't worry about sending it in to Taurus, because I'm pretty sure you just voided your warranty. Maybe 3 times.

So, you bought a Taurus that has a DA/SA trigger pull, with the intention of severely modifying it? Did you completely remove the ability of the gun to go DA on the first shot?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
No, this was a purchase from a while back that I'm trying to turn into a solid production/limited pistol. The DA/SA for the G2 is kind of a misnomer- it's really always DA with a trigger bar block that catches the trigger bar just ahead of the firing pin, preventing the trigger from moving all the way forward during reset. The action itself doesn't change. You are always directly compressing the firing pin spring, and it's always being released by the trigger bar arcing down the back of the disconnector. Doing minor mods is usually not a problem, unless the manufacturer has a tight control on replacement parts... Taurus being the only one that does so.
 

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You might want to call Midway or Brownells. Measure the spring you have and see if they have something similar
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Great idea. That covers way more ground than canvasing friends. I'll post my find when I get it.
 

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TCAP, since you've been under the hood: the trigger pull on my new G2 compact is...weird. It has a sort of "stop" before the last 1/16 inch or so of travel, requiring slightly more pressure to overcome, before it hits the striker. Normal or ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Normal. I can talk your eyes on to the cause if you pull your slide off. The metal tab sticking down off the striker is your sear face and is angled slightly forward, which is what you want for positive engagement. Now on the frame, look at your trigger bar. The trigger bar comes to a D-shaped point at the end, which makes contact with the disconnector at the end of the trigger pull, causing the trigger bar to move down and allowing the striker to release. The positive sear engagement (that tab angled forward) means the downward motion of the trigger bar causes the spring to compress even more for the last 1/16-ish of an inch. There's also an extra trigger bar stop spring at the very end of the pull to add smoothness-defying-complexity to the firing sequence.

If Taurus didn't exercise such a... unique level of control over their $4 replacement parts, I would also take the angle down on the sear face to make it slightly less positive. If it were perfectly vertical there would be no extra spring compression caused by the downward motion of the bar, but if you take too much off, then the last bit of trigger pull would lighten or creep (not good). I also don't have an engineering drawing of the fire control, so the amount of material removal from the sear face that would result in badness is an unknown, or fun to find out if it's cheap to start over again when it gets F'd away.

BTW, Glock uses the same striker spring for all of their models. The Glock springs happen to be the same dimensions as the Taurus spring, and the stock Glock spring has about the same K. I've swapped out the springs and will post a range report after my next outing.

Edit ----------

Pistol back up to working order, at least as far as I can tell from a 10 round function check. I'll put another 50 rounds through it, but it looks like glock saved the day.
 

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I've had the full size 24/7 G2 for about a month and fired 300 + rounds. I like the pistol over all and think it's about the most gun for the money but... That last couple of millimeters of trigger pull is driving me nuts also. It's not the few extra ounces but the grit or roughness or metal rubbing at the end that throws my shot off about an inch at 10 yards. Even with both hands steady on a table that last millimeter pulls your shot to the right if you're right handed or left for lefties. Dry fire with a laser, you'll see! I've polished the striker (Firing pin) pull surface, the rear tip of the trigger bar and central support but still feel the grittiness. I think the disconnector channel is the cause but it's too small to get inside with a dremmel to smooth out. What did you do to smooth out the trigger pull?
 

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I am having the identical issue with the trigger bar and disconnector. Were you ever able to remove the disconnector to polish it ?? Mine seems like it is pinned in and won't budge! ????
 

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YUP I see this is exactly why I prefer the 1st Gens. Yes there was a footballs field of take up, but broke clean, reset was fair. And just worked.
 
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