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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
You know your addicted when buying a 1911 doesn't satisfy you, anyway I started with a Jem frame, Caspian slide 20180316_153733.jpg 20180316_153804.jpg 20180318_085512.jpg 20180318_085617.jpg

Today I fit grip saftey, I start by putting dykem on the tangs, then install grip safety, then put the biggest gauge pin I can fit through the tangs and saftey, move the saftey back and forth to see what needs removed. Repeat until I can fit a .154 gauge pin and then the thumb saftey I will use.
 

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Nice work. I'll be following this thread, as I really want it build a 1911.
I'e watched a couple built on youtube, but they always seem to leave a couple of steps out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I some some time the past few evenings and I was able to fit the barrel. Kart barrels and Caspian slides don't like to play with each other, the barrel would not drop and have enough clearance in the slide. So I had to create the clearance required by removing material from the barrel from the 3:00-5:00 position and the 7:00-9:00 position 20180319_141520.jpg

I cut the hood with and length to a semi hard fit and then lapped the barrel hood to the breach face for final fit. I also lapped the barrel to the bushing for the final fit with about .001 clearance. Then I cut the lower lugs using a lug cutter, first using a .186 cutter and then a .195 cutter, I forgot to take a pic of the cutter while cutting but this is the Brownells kit I used 20180319_174052.jpg

Then I applied dykem to the lower lugs installed barrel and bushing in the slide, installed the slide stop and then racked the slide several times, then checked lower lugs for interference marks. Filed the lower lug with a round file to open up the .195 cut, slide stop pin is .200. I then Installed a #3 barrel link and checked the radius of the lower lugs, filed and polished so lugs would ride up the slide stop pin without barrel bump. 20180319_182738.jpg 20180319_182724.jpg

I then installed the barrel, bushing, #3 link into the slide and attached to the frame and installed slide stop, then attempted to rack the slide. No go :confused: slide wouldn't travel far enough forward to engage the thumb safety, also didn't have the barrel clearance with the slide:confused: had to think about it before doing anything. I tried a #2 barrel link :D 20180320_193424.jpg
 

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Nicely done!.................;)
 
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Nice hobby! Great looking work!
 
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This is really fascinating to watch. We've all seen the AR 15 builds ad nauseum and even some of the glock 80% builds but this is really a treat to watch. Thanks for sharing all the details. Not sure if I'd have the patience to do that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Today I did a lot of sanding on the frame and slide, just to smooth out all the machining marks and sharp edges. Spent a good 6 hours just sanding, Lumberton sanding sticks sure come in handy. The trigger track I had to remove about .004 on both sides, that is a lot to remove with a file, sanding and then a stone. 20180324_135416.jpg


I then installed the plunger tube, I take a ball cutter and on the inside of the frame open up the plunger tube holes to just a slight countersink. Then with a staking tool, stake the plunger tube in place. 20180324_132957.jpg


I told my wife I am getting near the end I don't know what I will do, she said "build another one". I sure will, already thinking about a alloy bobtail commander frame. Probably build next pistol in .38 super, don't want to get ahead of myself, need to finish this pistol first but when she said build another one I need to order a frame, they take 4-6 weeks to get.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Today I installed the ejector, cut the notch in the front leg and then profiled the nose
20180325_102036.jpg 20180325_104915.jpg
I don't like the ejector to extend over the mag well 20180325_104939.jpg
Then I installed mag release, it was oversized and needed fit like every other part. Even the magazine catch lock slot had to be open up and the catch lock filed down 20180325_120437.jpg
Then I blended the mag release to the frame 20180325_132559.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Then I started on the fire control group of course had to fit the trigger, then checked sear to hammer engagement on the outside of the pistol much easier to see 20180325_142018.jpg
I then installed the hammer strut to the hammer, no staking required it is a press fit, I pressed the pin through the hammer and strut using my machinist vise, my big one 20180325_145608.jpg
I then finished assembly of pistol doing all saftey checks 20180325_180529.jpg 20180325_180539.jpg 20180325_180600.jpg
Now I have to test fire for function and if all goes well I will blend the rear of the slide to the frame, not much varies from a 1/8" down to 1/16" then decide what finish and grips I want. Sights I have on the way from Dawson Precision
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I had a rare short day of work so I had a chance to go to the range and test fire my pistol, functioned very well. Shot 100 rds. at 7yds and 10 yds, I don't have sights yet so I just looked down the slide.
20180328_133812.jpg

After test firing I blended the slide to the frame
20180328_180053.jpg 20180328_180230.jpg 20180328_180304.jpg

Now I have to decide what color Ceracote I want and order some and also a set of grips
 

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I suggest that you visit the Cera- Coat website for some inspiration.
they have lots of pictures of customers finished gun there.
I lean on a 1911 kind of in the Black (Armory/ graphite/ etc )with a green frame ( several nice military type greens).
I have one of mine done in Graphite Black slide and Burnt Bronze frame that I like pretty well too.
nice job by the way!
this maybe should end up in the sticky section.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I have been looking at the cerakote website I think I will probably go with black graphite and some wood grips. I like wood grips and with the 20 LPI checkering on the front strap and mainspring housing the is plenty of non slip grip. I will probably continue thread with cerakote application.
 

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I'd be real tempted to polish it to as close to a mirror finish as you can then get it blued, polished and blued again. it should give it almost a Colt Royal Blue finish to it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I'd be real tempted to polish it to as close to a mirror finish as you can then get it blued, polished and blued again. it should give it almost a Colt Royal Blue finish to it.
I really have considered hot rust blueing, but I don't know if I want to invest in all the equipment, I really do like the blue finish on my Colt's and S & W's from the 80's and prior. Outsourced is very expensive, I already have a lot invested. I already have a sandblast cabinet, compressor, touch up spray gun and air brush, everything needed to apply cerakote.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I have the cerakote, I went with graphite black and a pair of half checkered walnut grips from Raasco. I has been too cold to cerakote, it is snowing as I type this, 3rd time this week. I have a propane heater for garage/workshop which will heat it up to 60 degrees when cold and snowing but it needs to get at least to 70-75 range before applying cerakote.
 
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