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Discussion Starter #1
So, I've got 500 rounds through the firearm and love the way it feels. I do have a question though.

It's a 9mm version, and I've shot two 250 rnd boxes of Remington 115 gr UMC through it, and only had a single lock back after the last round. For rounds 200-400, I was shooting 5 rounds in a magazine, and that still didn't help. The lock back on last round was on shot 240.

When should I consider replacing the recoil spring to a lighter spring? I'm looking at getting the Wolff gun springs Reduced Power Pack.

Also, does anyone have a recommendation for a website that gives tips for pistol shooting? I used to shoot rifles but recently picked this pistol up as a joint Christmas gift for my wife and myself. I've been doing so reading and a lot of people say to not lock your elbows, shoulders relaxed, arms out, don't drop your head. The problem is, when I shoot like that, I find myself shooting low. The guy in the lane next to me and I started talking (He shot 1 inch groups of over 40+ rounds at 15 yards.... Blew my mind) and he was saying that I should try locking both my elbows. When I locked my elbows, I noticed I was hitting center nearly every shot. Before that most of my shots were +/- 1.5 inches off center, mostly left, a few right, but they were consistently low. In order to hit bulls eye, I would have to aim 2-2.5 inches up.

Thanks everyone. Awesome website with very helpful people. I hope I become as knowledgeable as you guys are.
 

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the slide locking back has nothing to do with how many rounds thta you put in your magazine as only when the magazine is completely empty is it going to lock rearward.
the magazine follower operates a lever in the slide that locks the slide rearward.
I would first throughly clean the slide using gunscrubber and re lubrictae it.
then disassemble the magazines and clean them and check the follower for movement completely up to the top of the magazine.
I would try using a higher weight ammo , which is suggested(reccomended) with the taurus 9 mm ( 124 grain) secondly try a 9mm ammo of a little more power, such as S & b, or Aqulia, or RWS in 124 grain, the ammo has to ahve enough power to push the slide rearward far enough to engage the lock.
and thirdly shoot more!
if after doing what i mentioned and running say 5-600 rounds through the weapon and still having problems then contact taurus, also does it do this with both magazines?
IF yes then likely not the magazines.
 

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OH, heres a chart to help diagnose what the problems with your shooting may be!
understand that generally new shooters thta are right handed will shoot low and left, its a combination of trigger pull and flinching.
you must use a style that is best for you, look at the chart, print it out , take it to the range and see if you can figure out what you are doing.
a friend that is an experienced shooter can be of a lot of help to you with your problems.
 

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Something I did when I got my pistol (24/7):
When I went to the range that was going to be my "home" range, I paid attention to the RSO's. They seemed to know what they were doing, helped people etc etc. Then I asked one of them if he would shoot my pistol, to see what accuracy he could achieve. He was delighted to do it. Compared his target to mine, and we were able to come up with a plan. Alot of the R%SO's have a great deal of experience. Some even have training qualifications that they could teach pistol shooting, they just do not want the hassle.
There is a mine of info to be had at the range, and it is best if you get any problems sorted out quickly. If you shoot time after time with the same thing going wrong...the mind and body gets accustomed to it and it becomes difficult to overcome.
 

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If you shoot time after time with the same thing going wrong...the mind and body gets accustomed to it and it becomes difficult to overcome.
Exactly you can practice faults just like you can practice good stance and shooting techniques.
Unless you have shot enough to know the feeling when you did something incorrect and can self diagnose the problem, then a helper is usually a benefit.
thats why when i begin to get tired then i quit shooting, no need to reinforce bad habits.
 

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So, I've got 500 rounds through the firearm and love the way it feels. I do have a question though.

It's a 9mm version, and I've shot two 250 rnd boxes of Remington 115 gr UMC through it, and only had a single lock back after the last round. For rounds 200-400, I was shooting 5 rounds in a magazine, and that still didn't help. The lock back on last round was on shot 240.

When should I consider replacing the recoil spring to a lighter spring? I'm looking at getting the Wolff gun springs Reduced Power Pack.

Also, does anyone have a recommendation for a website that gives tips for pistol shooting? I used to shoot rifles but recently picked this pistol up as a joint Christmas gift for my wife and myself. I've been doing so reading and a lot of people say to not lock your elbows, shoulders relaxed, arms out, don't drop your head. The problem is, when I shoot like that, I find myself shooting low. The guy in the lane next to me and I started talking (He shot 1 inch groups of over 40+ rounds at 15 yards.... Blew my mind) and he was saying that I should try locking both my elbows. When I locked my elbows, I noticed I was hitting center nearly every shot. Before that most of my shots were +/- 1.5 inches off center, mostly left, a few right, but they were consistently low. In order to hit bulls eye, I would have to aim 2-2.5 inches up.

Thanks everyone. Awesome website with very helpful people. I hope I become as knowledgeable as you guys are.
My 9mm Taurus PT1911 wouldn't reliably lock back with any ammo when new. I replaced the recoil spring with a 12# Wolf spring and now she locks back reliably with any factory ammo as well as my reloads.
 

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Something I did when I got my pistol (24/7):
When I went to the range that was going to be my "home" range, I paid attention to the RSO's. They seemed to know what they were doing, helped people etc etc. Then I asked one of them if he would shoot my pistol, to see what accuracy he could achieve. He was delighted to do it. Compared his target to mine, and we were able to come up with a plan. Alot of the R%SO's have a great deal of experience. Some even have training qualifications that they could teach pistol shooting, they just do not want the hassle.
There is a mine of info to be had at the range, and it is best if you get any problems sorted out quickly. If you shoot time after time with the same thing going wrong...the mind and body gets accustomed to it and it becomes difficult to overcome.
Excellent points, sir!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Something I did when I got my pistol (24/7):
When I went to the range that was going to be my "home" range, I paid attention to the RSO's. They seemed to know what they were doing, helped people etc etc. Then I asked one of them if he would shoot my pistol, to see what accuracy he could achieve. He was delighted to do it. Compared his target to mine, and we were able to come up with a plan. Alot of the R%SO's have a great deal of experience. Some even have training qualifications that they could teach pistol shooting, they just do not want the hassle.
There is a mine of info to be had at the range, and it is best if you get any problems sorted out quickly. If you shoot time after time with the same thing going wrong...the mind and body gets accustomed to it and it becomes difficult to overcome.
Ugh... So I just typed out a super long response, and it logged me out and didn't save my response. Here it goes again... :(

Unfortunately for me, there is only one indoor range near me. The guy and his wife run it, and from the interactions I've had with him, I'm not very fond of him. I have recently befriended a fellow who was shooting a fully customized Fusion 1911. At 15 yards he had over 30 rounds within a 3 inch group. I talked to him about how I felt my sights were low, and I asked him if he would mind shooting it, and his were in line, but about three inches left. He said he's had all his sights adjusted for him, because he was consistently shooting left like that.

Olfarhors: Thanks for all the advice. The gun was cleaned twice before being fired, once after the first time, once after the second time. The reason it was cleaned twice was because I used Hoppes the first time, but have heard mixed opinions about it recently. I used to use it when I shot rifles, but figured I could reclean it with GunSlick's product lines to see if it worked better. I've cleaned it since with GunSlick's products. The magazines have also been cleaned.

I've had the problem with it not locking back with two Taurus magazines, and both of my new Wilson Combat magazines. I love my Wilson Combat magazines for anyone looking for a new type. The only time I've had a lock back after the last round is with the Wilson Combat. With both brands of magazines, it would lock back if racked by hand while empty. The comment about loading 5 rounds in a magazine was said because I would using twice as many magazines as needed, giving me a higher probability of lock back (Which didn't work.... :()

Part of me thinks that it's because I'm using such light rounds, part of me thinks it's too stiff of a recoil spring (as many others in other threads have also agreed). I plan on starting to handload sometime in January with 115 grain Rainer's and tweaking my powder. I plan on mostly using this for target shooting, but plan on keeping some hollow points in it around for home defense. I'm picking up a Lyman reloader from my Uncle who is a retired Detective with 25-30 years of reloading experience. I have to pick up some 9mm dies first which is the delay.I plan on perfecting the round I like before I switch recoil springs. As mentioned by gberghane, I'm looking at Wolff gun springs because I've heard NOTHING but good things about them.'

Along with my hand loads, I plan on making some dummy rounds. With that chart, most of my rounds are a mix between the Low Centre placement and the Low Left. Almost exactly in between them. I know part of it is with my trigger control, and I feel like part of it is me dropping the gun. I think the dummy rounds will help me catch myself in making these mistakes.

Thanks for all the advice and tips guys. Like I said I used to shoot rifles back when I was younger (I'm 23 now. I used to shoot rifles until I was about 16 and would consistently out shoot a kid I knew who was ranked in the 40's for the NRA nationwide). I'm mostly wanting to just do target shooting, but plan on keeping it loaded with hollow points for home defense. I'm looking at loading and shooting about 250-300 rounds a week. The delay for me reloading is I have to pick up some 9mm dies because the dies that will be with the reloader are for .45, .40, and .38 I believe.

On a side note: Anyone happen to have a recommendation for a powder?

Edit: Sorry for any typos. Had a lack of sleep the past two days due to partying and also because my wife decided to get food poisoning on our vacation and has proceed to vomit every 30-45 minutes the 20 hours, including night time. A lot of "Babe.... Dump my puke bucket..."
 

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Ugh... So I just typed out a super long response, and it logged me out and didn't save my response. Here it goes again... :(
On a side note: Anyone happen to have a recommendation for a powder?
QUOTE]

I don't have a 9 mm in a 1911 frame but do have a stoeger cougar, a Beretta PX4 SC, a Taurus model 99, a Taurus 24/7C all in 9mm.
I also use Ranier 115 grain projectiles, actually use round nose but they shipped me hollow points by mistake, same loading, different length!
anyway I find good results with unique in all these weapons.
I was using Accurate #5 in the 9 mm but the short barreled beretta (3 inch) just did not like that powder (likely to slow a burn rate) for the short barrel.
all four run fine off the unique.
unique is also good for many different pistol calibers.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ugh... So I just typed out a super long response, and it logged me out and didn't save my response. Here it goes again... :(
On a side note: Anyone happen to have a recommendation for a powder?
I don't have a 9 mm in a 1911 frame but do have a stoeger cougar, a Beretta PX4 SC, a Taurus model 99, a Taurus 24/7C all in 9mm.
I also use Ranier 115 grain projectiles, actually use round nose but they shipped me hollow points by mistake, same loading, different length!
anyway I find good results with unique in all these weapons.
I was using Accurate #5 in the 9 mm but the short barreled beretta (3 inch) just did not like that powder (likely to slow a burn rate) for the short barrel.
all four run fine off the unique.
unique is also good for many different pistol calibers.
I'm looking at the Bullseye powder from Alliance. Seems like it takes less grain and provides about 100 FPS less, using 2/3rds the amount of powder. I was planning on using the Rainer 115 9mm FMJ, but they have the hollow points on sale, so it looks like I'm going to be ordering the hollow points.
 

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While I don't have a PT1911 in 9mm I do have a 9mm 1911 and have had lock back problems as well. After lots of research and digging I have found that it is a common problem with 9mm 1911s. 1911s can be finicky about magazines and 9mm versions even more so.

My factory mags are Checkmate and about half the time they will lock back with a round still in them. I then bought Wilson mags, they almost never lock back. I then took to my research, some guys that compete with a 9mm 1911 in IPSC style shooting told me that Springfield mags were the way to go. At that time (the great ammo/gun/magazine shortage)the only ones I could find were very expensive, think I paid $68.

Well it worked, I have since bought 2 more from Mag 1911 Government Commander 9mm Luger 9-Round SS $32 and they all have been 100%.

Your problem could very well be to stiff a recoil spring, Wolff recommends a 14# for 9mm but mine came with a 12#, I tried a 14# and had problems with feeding and lock back, a 13# worked but to be safe I am using the 12#.

As for powder, I use Titegroup. It is suitable for all pistol cartridges I load, .380 to .50 Action Express, it has low charge weights (to save $$), easy to meter and it is designed to work with less than optimum case filling that I get with my light loads. The only drawback I have found is that the charge weights are so low that it is possible to fit a double charge in many cases.
 

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I'm looking at the Bullseye powder from Alliance. Seems like it takes less grain and provides about 100 FPS less, using 2/3rds the amount of powder. I was planning on using the Rainer 115 9mm FMJ, but they have the hollow points on sale, so it looks like I'm going to be ordering the hollow points.
to each hsi own but I really don't worry or even consider the amount of money or rounds that i can get out of a powder as a choice to go with that powder!
figure that a pound of powder has 7000 grains and even at 7 grains per round you get 1000 rounds or 20 boxes of ammo for what 14-17 dollars?
primers and projectiles are most of the cost in reloading.
to me I like a good fill capacity, complete as possible burn in the barrel length, and clean burning, and of course 120% functioning of the firearm.
but everyone has thier likes /dislikes.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
to each hsi own but I really don't worry or even consider the amount of money or rounds that i can get out of a powder as a choice to go with that powder!
figure that a pound of powder has 7000 grains and even at 7 grains per round you get 1000 rounds or 20 boxes of ammo for what 14-17 dollars?
primers and projectiles are most of the cost in reloading.
to me I like a good fill capacity, complete as possible burn in the barrel length, and clean burning, and of course 120% functioning of the firearm.
but everyone has thier likes /dislikes.
I think the bullseye is pretty much the same as the unique, but it seems to be faster burning, and more consistent according to Alliance. That's another reason I think I'm going to go with bullseye. I first need to build up my collection of brass first. I've got only about 250-300 cases right now. Picking up my dies and powder and such tomorrow I think. Might try doing a heavier load before I order the recoil spring kit. I'm thinking if I add a little extra powder (I read that you shouldn't go more that 110%) So I want to see if I can increase the powder charge to get a lock back after the last shot. Since it locks back if racked by hand, I'm thinking it's that the round doesn't have enough back force to lock it. We'll see I guess...

Edit: What would be a downside of increasing the powder? Over pressure and early case fatigue, but when should I consider dropping the recoil spring instead of running more powder?
 

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I think the bullseye is pretty much the same as the unique, but it seems to be faster burning, and more consistent according to Alliance. That's another reason I think I'm going to go with bullseye. I first need to build up my collection of brass first. I've got only about 250-300 cases right now. Picking up my dies and powder and such tomorrow I think. Might try doing a heavier load before I order the recoil spring kit. I'm thinking if I add a little extra powder (I read that you shouldn't go more that 110%) So I want to see if I can increase the powder charge to get a lock back after the last shot. Since it locks back if racked by hand, I'm thinking it's that the round doesn't have enough back force to lock it. We'll see I guess...

Edit: What would be a downside of increasing the powder? Over pressure and early case fatigue, but when should I consider dropping the recoil spring instead of running more powder?

Increase it enough and you will turn your 1911 into a grenade!! I always start out 10% under max listed load, work my way up, always looking for signs of over pressure and I never go over max listed load.

As a side note all the magazines that don't lock back on my 9mm 1911 will do it when racking the slide by hand. Factory loads are not usually light loads and if your gun is over sprung I would expect to see it jamming, not just failing to lock back. Either way a spring is much cheaper than setting up to reload.
 

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Ugh... So I just typed out a super long response, and it logged me out and didn't save my response. Here it goes again... :(
On a side note: Anyone happen to have a recommendation for a powder?
QUOTE]

I don't have a 9 mm in a 1911 frame but do have a stoeger cougar, a Beretta PX4 SC, a Taurus model 99, a Taurus 24/7C all in 9mm.
I also use Ranier 115 grain projectiles, actually use round nose but they shipped me hollow points by mistake, same loading, different length!
anyway I find good results with unique in all these weapons.
I was using Accurate #5 in the 9 mm but the short barreled beretta (3 inch) just did not like that powder (likely to slow a burn rate) for the short barrel.
all four run fine off the unique.
unique is also good for many different pistol calibers.
For 9mm, my vote is for WSF (4.2 grain) with 115 or 125 grain lead bullets, and I've also had good results with Clays.
 

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Edit: What would be a downside of increasing the powder? Over pressure and early case fatigue, but when should I consider dropping the recoil spring instead of running more powder?
the downside is distruction of the weapon and in severe cases the shooters body parts as well.
even a single ruptured case/primer can cause bad things to happen to a weapon.
follow reccomended loading guides from a reputable loading manual, drop the max charge by at least 10%, if a starting load is not given, work up to max or pressure signs and stop.
You should consider changing the recoil spring well before over charging a case.
IF you have a built weapon with a ramped barrel and beefed up parts and are experienced then maybe, but not with a stock gun.
 

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For 9mm, my vote is for WSF (4.2 grain) with 115 or 125 grain lead bullets, and I've also had good results with Clays.
We all have our favorites!
the Raniers are not true lead projectiles however, they are copper plated and generally reccomended to load at medium jacketed loads.
the Unique at 5.0 grains and 1.125 OAL seems to work well in my pistols with the plated Raniers in .355.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
We all have our favorites!
the Raniers are not true lead projectiles however, they are copper plated and generally reccomended to load at medium jacketed loads.
the Unique at 5.0 grains and 1.125 OAL seems to work well in my pistols with the plated Raniers in .355.
1.125 seems to be across the board for OAL. I plan on using that Rainers because everyone that seems to use them has no complaints.

the downside is distruction of the weapon and in severe cases the shooters body parts as well.
even a single ruptured case/primer can cause bad things to happen to a weapon.
follow reccomended loading guides from a reputable loading manual, drop the max charge by at least 10%, if a starting load is not given, work up to max or pressure signs and stop.
You should consider changing the recoil spring well before over charging a case.
IF you have a built weapon with a ramped barrel and beefed up parts and are experienced then maybe, but not with a stock gun.
What should you look for when looking for bad cases? I'm assuming cracks/warping of the cases, but anything else? I've got almost all my Reminington UMC cases that I fired last time I went. I was going to start at 10% under, I don't really remember what I was talking about with the 10% over. Like I said I was slightly out of it from 4 days of sleep deprivation along with a sick wife throwing up every 45 minutes. Needless to say, worse vacation ever. When changing recoil springs, if the spring is too light, it can cause slide hammering or something (I can't remember the exact term). What are signs of too light of a recoil spring?

Increase it enough and you will turn your 1911 into a grenade!! I always start out 10% under max listed load, work my way up, always looking for signs of over pressure and I never go over max listed load.

As a side note all the magazines that don't lock back on my 9mm 1911 will do it when racking the slide by hand. Factory loads are not usually light loads and if your gun is over sprung I would expect to see it jamming, not just failing to lock back. Either way a spring is much cheaper than setting up to reload.
Yet again, sorry about the error with the 10% overcharge. I did have two FTE's. Are there any problems with changing to a lower recoil spring?
 

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Yet again, sorry about the error with the 10% overcharge. I did have two FTE's. Are there any problems with changing to a lower recoil spring?
Yeah lack of sleep makes me dumber than I usually am!! The problems with too light a spring can vary. If you run light loads and spring to match, you will have to switch to a stiffer spring to run std loads. Too light a spring can cause the slide to batter against the frame causing damage and if it very very light you can have feeding problems.

The key is find the spring that gets your gun to run 100% with your ammo. Buy a set and start working down 1# pound at a time till it runs, I would not worry unless it took a 10# or less on a 9mm 1911 with std ammo. If it does then you may have something else wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yeah lack of sleep makes me dumber than I usually am!! The problems with too light a spring can vary. If you run light loads and spring to match, you will have to switch to a stiffer spring to run std loads. Too light a spring can cause the slide to batter against the frame causing damage and if it very very light you can have feeding problems.

The key is find the spring that gets your gun to run 100% with your ammo. Buy a set and start working down 1# pound at a time till it runs, I would not worry unless it took a 10# or less on a 9mm 1911 with std ammo. If it does then you may have something else wrong.
So you're thinking I should make a set of reloads and order the recoil spring kit at the same time? Test them both to find what I like? What are signs of the slide battering the frame? I've already noticed small gouges in the rails on the slide that I don't know what they came from, since I only have 500 rounds through it. I might try to take pictures later.
 
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