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Wilson Combat aftermarket parts

3K views 15 replies 8 participants last post by  tomjerry1 
#1 ·
Good morning, all. I am looking at pivking up some aftermarket WC parts for my PT1911, specifically a new hammer, hammer bar, ambidextrous safety, and trigger. Does anyone have any experience with these parts and do they require any fitting/smithing to fit correctly? Any insight is greatly appreciated.
 
#2 ·
I'd say it's about a 50/50 chance that some fitment will be required. I installed a Wilson Combat extended thumb safety and slide release on my PT1911 with no issue but the hammer required a wee bit of filing.
 
#3 ·
well IF fitting isn't required for a particular pistol then why would the part or function be any better than the factory parts???
myself I want any 1911 part to require fitting or there really isn't much need in me replacing it.
Just my opinion and we know how that is.
 
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#4 ·
If you are going to replace hammer and trigger you should also replace the sear, might as well throw in the disconnector and then that is the whole firing control group. Yes there will be fitting required, even if you get lucky and a part drops in it most likely is not at optimal performance. If a thumb safety dropped in without any fitting I would be leary.
 
#7 ·
As a general rule, Wilson has a history of not being compatible with the PT-1911.

If you want to replace the fire control assembly, a kit from Cylinder & Slide would be better.

BTW, Rule #1 of the 1911 is that all parts need fitting. No such thing as a drop-in part for a 1911, not even the grips. If you get a part that does drop-in, either you are extremely lucky, or the part is undersize and may fail.
 
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#10 ·
C&S builds their trigger groups as a complete set that works together.
 
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#11 ·
I have used C & S ingnition kits and they are pretty good quality, my go to parts are John Harrison and EGW. That said the C & S kit most likely will still need fitting in your PT 1911, I have found Taurus pin locations are not to spec, this is not just Taurus many manufacturers specs vary. Take gauge pins that are the right dia. and check sear to hammer hook engagement on the outside of the pistol, my guess is you will have to shorten your sear. I recommend the TR sear jig John Harrison sells.

Gun Trigger Revolver Starting pistol
 
#12 ·
I like EGW, they make good parts. I think at one time on their website when asked why they build their parts oversize, they said they had identified 14 different variations of the 1911 frame and that some of the variations were between different models from the same manufacturer (like how the frame for the PT-1911AL varies from the steel frame PT-1911 models).
 
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#14 ·
you are just picking on the PT1911 AL out of jealousy cause you don't have one!!!
seriously though the AL is in my opinion a much better frame in design than the regular PT1911 frame, even aftermarket grip panels mount evenly on it.
its a shame they haven't used this frame in smaller 1911 weapons as I really like mine, seems tooling is much better as well?
 
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#13 ·
This is very true the specs are all over the place, even Les Baer frame specs are out of spec to the point where a lot of the top pistolsmiths won't work on them. Ever remove a mainspring housing from a Les Baer ? when building the pistols they egg out the hole to be able to get the pin in, Les moved pin hole location for who knows why with no benefit. If you buy a Les Baer you are best off to make sure you have it built exactly the way you want because changes in the future can be a real pain.
 
#15 ·
Agreed, the AL frame is the best 1911 frame that Taurus has ever made.
 
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