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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by gpete22 View Post
    You are a life saver with all the useful information! I don't have the right size punch so I will pick one up along with some fine sand paper as soon as I am able. The striker looks unblemished though so I'm not too confident there are any burrs or anything slowing down the striker... Are there any other options for a harder strike? Maybe a spacer to compress the striker spring slightly more for a harder hit? Or maybe just buy a new spring and hope its stiffer?
    You don't want to start putting foreign objects into your firearm. If it's working properly it should strike plenty hard. The firing pin spring assembly can be disassembled (the end that looks like a tiny hat will screw off if you compress the spring a little), and you could try a stiffer spring if you could find one, but I'd be hesitant to do that. For one thing it will make the trigger heavier, and for another it could cause the spring assembly to fail. The spring is held in place by a tiny washer and a 'knob' on the end of the plastic rod. I'd be afraid that a stiffer spring would push the washer right over the knob.

    I'd take it apart and try smoothing the channel with very tightly rolled 600 grit sandpaper. But again you have to be really careful not to lose any small springs. You can test the strength of your strike by dropping a pencil (eraser first) into the barrel, hold the barrel vertically, pull the trigger and note how high the pencil jumps. You'll need to repeat this several times to get a benchmark, but it should send the pencil all the way out of the barrel. When I do it with mine it clears the barrel by probably 6-8".

    And I'll put this disclaimer on it - if you're pretty proficient at assembly/disassembly of firearms then detail stripping and reassembly is no big deal. If you're not, reassembly can be a little tricky. Some folks like to do the disassembly with the weapon inside a plastic bag so if any springs go flying they won't go far. The one I always worry about is the spring that operates the loaded chamber indicator - that little sucker is about 1/16th of an inch in diameter, and about 1/4" long. (to get it back in I lay it in place on the extractor, then I position the loaded chamber indicator and put the whole thing back in the pistol with the pistol laying on it's side, and the extractor spring already in place) You'll have to be the judge of your own abilities, so you make the call - and remember, the first time is always the hardest. Just be aware that if you loose a part, or can't get it reassembled it's probably not going to be covered by the warranty.

    Or the other option that's always available is to send it on a vacation to Miami. If you haven't had it more than a year, they'll pay the postage both ways.

    You are correct, I have never removed the firing pin. Actually I'm not sure on how to go about it....
    To remove the firing pin you first have to remove the plastic dust cover. It clips over the firing pin spring stop, and you have to carefully pry the leading edge up enough so you can push the dust cover to the rear. Use a VERY small screw driver, and don't pry the plastic any more than is absolutely necessary to clear the stop. Take your time and go slow as it's pretty easy to bend the plastic, and if you do that it will probably come off the first time the weapon is fired. It's not like it's a huge deal - you don't need the dust cover for the weapon to operate properly, and the last time I needed one Taurus sent me five of them for free.

    Once the dust cover is off you'll see the hole in the stop with a little green circle in the middle of it. The green circle is the back of the firing pin spring. Just take the biggest punch that will fit through the hole and push the green circle in a little, and push the stop down slowly. The spring assembly is going to pop a little when it's clear of the stop, but not a whole bunch.

    Then take your finger, and pull back on the firing pin hook and the firing pin with the spring assembly will both come out. Be careful when you do this as the firing pin return spring will be just in front of the firing pin hook, and you don't want to lose it. As soon as you've got the firing pin out, remove the return spring and put it somewhere that it won't get lost until you're ready for reassembly.
    gbusmech likes this.
    "The marksman aims primarily at himself"
    - Zen saying

  2. #12
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    And as an afterthought - you might be able to accomplish the smoothing without a complete disassembly. You could try just removing the firing pin, insert the rolled 600 grit into the channel, and push down on the firing pin stop from the under side of the slide to get the channel clear. You'll need to keep constant pressure on the firing pin block while you're doing the operation, but it might just work. I haven't tried it this way, but it might work - at any rate it's on you if you want to try it that way. And don't forget the Rem Dri Lube when you reassemble - it's some pretty magical stuff.
    "The marksman aims primarily at himself"
    - Zen saying

  3. #13
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    For some picture references on the striker disassembly, you can try this. https://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/sm...nnium-pro.html

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  5. #14
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    For the pencil test with the striker channel freshly cleaned, I typically get about an inch and a half of lift (inside the barrel that is, the pencil never leaves it).

  6. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by gpete22 View Post
    For the pencil test with the striker channel freshly cleaned, I typically get about an inch and a half of lift (inside the barrel that is, the pencil never leaves it).
    It should definitely jump higher than that. I'm starting to sound like a broken record, but if all the parts look right the only logical reason is something binding on the firing pin in the channel. Even if the firing pin itself looks okay, a little polishing on it - particularly the slightly enlarged shoulder just behind the business end - couldn't hurt. The tolerances are pretty close in there, so any polishing you do is going to give you a little more clearance.

    And again, it could be the firing pin block itself causing the problem. If you dry fire a lot without a snap cap you can peen the firing pin block - as I did on mine, which is how I know it can happen. But to be able to tell if that's the problem you have to get the block out where you can look at it closely. I found some peening on mine which I knocked off with a round needle file and polished with 600 grit, and the light strikes went away and haven't returned.

    The good news is, if the pencil is only moving an inch or so, it should be real easy to tell when you've got the problem fixed. Gotta be optimistic.
    "The marksman aims primarily at himself"
    - Zen saying

  7. #16
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    This is true! It is clear my gun is not striking properly so it should be clear once it is fixed! Unfortunately I have not had time to pick up any sand paper or the correct punch. I am a senior in college and its cram time for finals... so it might be a week or so. I really appreciate the help and will keep you posted we with any updates!
    dbeardslee likes this.

  8. #17
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    Alright so I couldn't wait any more and pulled the pin block out. No burrs or anything that would stick out into the channel, BUT I did notice a very worn section of the block where the firing pin has hit it many times. The paint is worn off and there is a dent where it has been struck. Even with dry firing the pin should never actually strike the block right??Name:  IMAG0031.jpg
Views: 208
Size:  1.08 MB

  9. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by gpete22 View Post
    Alright so I couldn't wait any more and pulled the pin block out. No burrs or anything that would stick out into the channel, BUT I did notice a very worn section of the block where the firing pin has hit it many times. The paint is worn off and there is a dent where it has been struck. Even with dry firing the pin should never actually strike the block right??Name:  IMAG0031.jpg
Views: 208
Size:  1.08 MB
    That's the way mine looked. When you don't have a round in the chamber the firing pin goes forward farther than it normally would, and I think that's got something to do with how the damage can occur. What I did on mine was to carefully remove the peening paying particular attention to the circular channel - and being careful not to change the geometry of the 'arc.' Then a little polishing with 600 grit to get it nice and smooth. You don't want to remove too much material or the firing pin block won't work. Just get rid of the metal that's been pushed towards the pass through for the firing pin. I wouldn't be a bit surprised if that's not what was causing the light strikes. One way to find out...

    When you reassemble you'll want to make sure you're firing pin block is still working. To do that simply lay the slide upside down, and try to push the firing pin forward by pressing on the hook. It shouldn't budge. Then push down on the firing pin block and push forward on the firing pin hook again. It should go forward slightly, and the firing pin should protrude from the hole. At this point don't ease the pressure off the firing pin hook - just let your finger slip off the hook so the return spring can do its thing. Then release the pressure on the firing pin block, and once again try to push forward on the firing pin hook. It should not go forward.
    "The marksman aims primarily at himself"
    - Zen saying

  10. #19
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    Just to clarify - don't try to remove the entire shiny area - just the edge around the semi-circular cut out, and maybe back just a pinch from there. And make sure the entire cutout is smooth. Very light sanding with 600 grit should do it - preferably wrapped around a dowel or similar round object.
    "The marksman aims primarily at himself"
    - Zen saying

  11. #20
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    And don't forget to polish the inside of the channel. The firing pin block might only be part of the problem, and you may have a raised edge around one of the openings contributing to the problem. Clean it out good afterwards to get rid of anything that comes off the sandpaper, lube, reassemble, and test.
    "The marksman aims primarily at himself"
    - Zen saying

 

 
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