Restoring my Grandfather's motorcycle 1980 CB650C - Page 2
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Thread: Restoring my Grandfather's motorcycle 1980 CB650C

  1. #11
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    Great bike, older Hondas are so cool they are making retro bikes now.
    I have been jonesing for a 1974 Honda CL360 scrambler. I'm probably going to end up with a new Yamaha TW200 because it's "over land"' ability. I can't walk the woods and trails anymore like I want too. I have always liked trailbikes and scooters. I may sell my show bike. 1981 Honda passport C70. I took 1st. Place in unrestored class last year and 4th place a few years ago.
    My dads friend has been a bike guy all his life. Motocross winner in the 1970s. He is 74 and rides his Ducati everywhere he goes weather permeating. Friday week ago he got hit. The Bones broken will heal but the brain bleed has weakened his right side. He is going to a rehab facility tomorrow. I think I'll stay on a trail scooter and off busy roads.
    If I were to get a road bike it would be a 1970-80 cb Honda or Yamaha 450-750.
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  2. #12
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    I tried opening this link oldrice.com but Firefox didn't like it. Previously found that link very interesting.
    The Christian Faith: We are not called to solve the Mystery, but to enter into it. Ephesians 3

  3. #13
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    GH, drain the old oil. This information from the past, but still relevant:

    "The engine is open to another form of corrosion, too. When the oil becomes contaminated with soot particles from the combustion process and is heated beyond a certain point, it turns from its normal alkaline state to an acidic state. This acid can attack the metal engine parts and cause corrosion unless neutralized quickly."

    If an engine is in a humid environment and condensation is a concern, fill the crankcase with fresh oil. If it's not going to be started for a while, overfilling the crank is okay. Turn the engine by hand a few times to distribute the fresh oil, and you're good.
    Last edited by TrucksNCoffee; 06-23-2020 at 09:06 PM.
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  5. #14
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    Once the carbs are rebuilt change the oil before the first time you try to crank the engine. If the inside of the rusted tank looks like the outside I would probably not want to use it.

    Have fun!

  6. #15
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    Never had a 650 but rode a CB360 for a few years then tore myself up riding a newly rebuild Yamaha 550 special. That was it for bikes for me. Brother in law had a Kaw 400 that was a rocket. Had a similar acceleration as a CR250 elsinore.
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  7. #16
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    Helpful hint for you if don’t already know.
    Using aerosol carb cleaner, clean ALL of the passages and jets in the carbs, especially those of the primary/idle circuit, which are the smallest and plug up first.
    loudviking and GhostHorse like this.

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  8. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by darbo View Post
    Once the carbs are rebuilt change the oil before the first time you try to crank the engine. If the inside of the rusted tank looks like the outside I would probably not want to use it.
    Your comment led me to take a better look inside that tank. Yowch. I'll see if a couple of days soak in vinegar cleans it out, but I sure hope the inside of the original tank looks better! It has had it's cap on, so hopefully it will.

    Quote Originally Posted by william View Post
    Helpful hint for you if don’t already know.
    Using aerosol carb cleaner, clean ALL of the passages and jets in the carbs, especially those of the primary/idle circuit, which are the smallest and plug up first.
    So far I've used the carb dip tank, and q-tips, and copper wire, and brake cleaner. Some WD-40 after the brake cleaner because that stuff is so harsh. I'll give the idle circuit one last look before I reassemble them for good with the new gaskets and o-rings.
    william and darbo like this.
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  9. #18
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    For carbs on anything that's been sittin' awhile, I use the regular carb cleaners like Gunk or Permatex (1 gallon can with the dip basket) and let them soak for a few days. I have an assortment of clamshell tea strainers for jets and other small parts. I use torch tip cleaners to rod out the passages and blow 'em out with compressed air, then flush with aerosol carb/throttle body cleaner. As I understand it, you won't be firing it up any time soon and in that case, I'd drop the oil and fill the crankcase with diesel fuel (sans filter). Diesel will lube the parts against corrosion and also breakdown any sedimentary sludge. Even when doing a top-end refresh, I use diesel fuel rather than oil when putting it back together so the rings seat quicker.
    Car_Doc likes this.
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  10. #19
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    The one gallon can with dip basket is exactly what I'm using. It's Chem-Dip, and the label says it's okay for aluminum, but when I bought it the guy at Auto Zone asked if I was using it for aluminum and said "don't leave it in there a long time." Apparently he'd done a lawnmower carb and the dip damaged the aluminum. So I'm keeping the dip time to a minimum for those parts.

    The diesel is a good idea; another friend suggested that.


    Anybody have experience/thoughts on pod filters?
    kschilk likes this.
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  11. #20
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    What I did with my 250 carb was to run it through my ultrasonic parts cleaner. Don't know if the more experienced mechanics would recommend this.
    The Christian Faith: We are not called to solve the Mystery, but to enter into it. Ephesians 3

 

 
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