Questions concerning car brakes
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Thread: Questions concerning car brakes

  1. #1
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    Questions concerning car brakes

    What’s the “average” life of pads and shoes? I’m not having any issues (rotors up front look nice and smooth, no noise at all braking, no fading, peddle is firm, stops well) it’s just I haven’t serviced them in over 60k miles; same pads and shoes since bought used.

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    It all depends on your driving style and city / highway use. I can easily get 100k on my truck but the wife is lucky to get 50k. She stays on the binders hard while I start showing earlier and ease on the pedal.

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    A lot depends on the mix of highway/city driving as well as the weight of the vehicle and habits of the driver as mentioned. I typically expect to have to change them out at 50k +/-. I had new pads installed all around at 35k hoping to extend the life of the rotors. Many will say that the rotors get glazed and it;s not a good idea to operate like that, I've not had any issues and have done it a few times. Around here pads and rotors can run 800 bucks more or less.
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    All depends on the brand, your environment, and your driving style. Factory brake pads can easily hit 60-100k miles if you're lenient with the stress and do a lot of highway driving. If you're in a hilly environment, you're closer to the 60k range.

    Now when you get replacement pads, i always recommend the OEM pads or at least the equivalent to them. If you go cheap on pads and rotors, it always costs more over the long haul.
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    I think we need to send you to automotive school since you have so many questions and problems with your vehicles.
    Last edited by kruizer; 09-02-2019 at 01:51 PM.
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    For the sake of sucking up more interwebs bandwidth... I'd echo what everyone else has said; depends upon style of driving and if your commute involves lots of stop & go or highway miles. If your rotors look OK just to be safe you can always just swap out the pads. Rock Auto has 'em cheap. When in doubt, swap'em out!
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    Quote Originally Posted by kruizer View Post
    I think we need to send you to automotive school since you have so many questions and problems with your vehicles.
    Maybe they will teach him how to calibrate the sensor attached to the 'Miles to Go Until Empty ' light.
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    Like everyone has said so far, there are a lot of variables and brake wear won't be the same between any two cars and/or drivers. One variable not mentioned is the vehicle itself, some tend to be harder on brakes than others regardless of driving habits. An easy way to get an idea without actually looking at the brakes, is to check your brake fluid level. As the brakes wear, more fluid will remain in the calipers and the fluid level in your reservoir will drop. If the reservoir is nearing half-empty, it'd be a good idea to have someone lay eyes on 'em as they're prob'ly gettin' close. When I do oil changes, I also do a full pre-inspection of the vehicle and let the customer know of any potential issues coming up, brakes get checked first. If the place that you go to for oil changes doesn't do that, I'd switch to one that does.

    If you're somewhat unfamiliar with the vehicle, as far as the rate it goes through consumables, I'd recommend getting a fresh set of pads & rotors checked at 30-35,000 miles to see where they're at. As an average, most folks' pads are more than half gone by then. Peeking through the rim at the outside pads is rarely a good way to judge, since the inside tends to wear much faster on many vehicles. A more common issue with newer brakes, is the tendency for the caliper slides to get sticky or the pads to seize in the caliper brackets and cause premature wear/failure. The time to disassemble, clean and relube everything costs less than a set of pads & rotors, maybe even calipers so it pays to have them checked periodically.
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark38090 View Post
    It all depends on your driving style and city / highway use. I can easily get 100k on my truck but the wife is lucky to get 50k. She stays on the binders hard while I start showing earlier and ease on the pedal.
    Same deal here. I get whiplash from the wife's driving!
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    You might consider bleeding the lines and replacing the fluid. If the hardware is good, no need to replace.

 

 
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