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  1. #11
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    Agree with all above but now for the answer to you're real question. When should I do a brake job? My answer may be questioned by some so I'll give you my reasoning first.
    Modern vehicles are no longer built with rotors that can be turned, you have to buy new. This is done to make cars as light as possible. Additionally, the front rotors are thicker then the rears (pads too) as the front brakes do most of the work stopping your car or truck. Knowing that, I wait until my front brake pads start squealing upon braking. If my rears start first, I'm annoyed but I ignore. Once a front brake squeals, I replace all.
    Last edited by gyro_cfi; 09-02-2019 at 05:01 PM.
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  2. #12
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    A few years ago, I was outside when a guy brought his car in for inspection and it made all kinds of noise when he hit the brakes. As soon as he got out, I told him it sounded like he was gonna' need brakes. He said "Yeah, it might...it just started makin' noise on the way out here." I took it in and pulled the left front wheel......only the outer flange and some of the internal webbing was left. There was no brake pad and only a circle cut out of the backing plate was left inside the caliper piston. The piston was beat-up and largely ground-down from cutting through the rotor. Nothing of the inner flange of the rotor remained. If that thing just started makin' noise on the way out......he musta' been comin' from Mozambique.
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  3. #13
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    Heh. When to replace brakes? When they need to be replaced. Depends upon a myriad of factors, most of which have been mentioned above. However, a good rule of thumb is to swap pads when they squeak. Most all brake pad makers embed a small piece of steel that cause a squeak when they reach their wear limit. Change them then. I am also of the mindset that I never turn the rotors. New pads, new rotors, cylinder rebuild if it needs it, then bleed, and drive.
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  5. #14
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    After the OEM pads the came from the factory are worn out, usually at 35k for the front and 60k rear, I replace them with Yellow Stuff. The The Yellow Stuff has been good for 100k plus on all my cars except my GTO, which only has 117k on it ... Many more miles to go on the pads.

    https://ebcbrakes.com/product/yellow...nd-track-pads/
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  6. #15
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    well, I just put my 3rd set of pads and finally changed out the rotors on the van at 210K. Not because of wear or squealing but because of shuttering when braking harder than normal. Mic'd them and found out they we're maybe only a ten thousandth off but they were warped. warping comes from constant hard braking or braking with heavy loads. I replaced the OEM rotors with slotted, cross drilled rotors and it's as smooth of braking I've had since it was new.

    With brakes, I've always had a spare set of front and rear pads that I keep on a shelf ready for replacement. I get those cheap squeeze tubes of anti-squeak for the pads and throw them in the box.
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  7. #16
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    I just did the front pads and rotors on a 2005 Chevy Equinox with 117,000 miles on it. Took just over an hour as I was teaching my 17 year old how to do it as well. Brakes had just started squealing earlier that week.

    I have a small Nissan that has 145,000 miles on it and brakes are still fine. I'm very easy on the brakes and it shows on this car.
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  8. #17
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    I've been using this stuff with good results. The ceramics run too hot for the old brake greases, most will just bake and harden, seizing everything up. A little goes a long way, this bottle runs me about $20 but it lasts for a few months and I do a lot of brake jobs. It also comes in 5 oz tubes.

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    Up here, rotors don't usually outlast the pads and it's mostly due to the finish deteriorating. How "high end" ya' go doesn't seem to matter and anything slotted or drilled goes quicker, 'coz they hold the road salt. The past few years, I've been experimenting with the poly rotors. I was skeptical, as I assumed the poly coating would wear off the braking surface and they'd just be like standard rotors. The Wagner rep assured me that they are impregnated, not just coated but I wasn't convinced.

    My NAPA commercial rep had me put a set all the way around on his '01 Crown Vic and since I do all of his family's auto work, I was able to keep tabs on 'em. He drove the car a lot and lived back in the sticks so it saw the worst of winter conditions. After a year, the rotors weren't pristine but they were in generally great shape, comparatively. I adopted the practice of looking up both premium and poly, offering either choice to the customer though I didn't really push them. They still aren't available for all positions on all vehicles and the price difference varies greatly. Most often, the polys are $10-$15 more each but in some cases, they can be double or more what a standard rotor runs. I put a set on a Mercedes and the difference was under $3 per rotor, that was a rare one.

    I now have several vehicles out there with the polys on and they've been holding up well. Some have been through a couple winters now and as many sets of pads. Most standard rotors only get through one winter here. Pickups and SUVs are harder on rear rotors than most cars so I encourage them to at least go poly on the rear, if the price isn't ridiculous. They've also been a plus for the boaters, since they get the back ones wet a lot. Of course, they need to be paired with a good set of pads.
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  9. #18
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    ^^ For under 15.00 I would give them a go...double the cost, never.
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  10. #19
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    I like to look at the rotors of other cars at while sitting at stoplights. If they don't shine, they probably haven't worked in a while.

    The wife's Avon lady dropped an order of for the wife one time. As we stood in the driveway, I looked down at saw that her car's rear rotors were ground down to nothingness. I told her to park it till it could be repaired.

    My pet peeve for brake jobs is old brake fluid not being flushed out the every three years or so.
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  11. #20
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    I agree with those who say it all depends on how you drive. The brakes on my Escape have not been changed yet at 98,000 miles. They still have some life left. I'm estimating they will be good to 120K. But I drive about half highway and half city. I anticipate stops where possible and start coasting down rather than to zoom up to the stop and then slam on the brakes hard like most people do. That driving style will maximize both your brake lining life and your gas mileage.

    My wife is a typical zoom and slam braker. Her pads last about 30K miles on average.

    As someone else mentioned most newer vehicles come with thinner rotors that cannot be turned and must be replaced every time the pads are changed. That makes a brake job quite a bit more expensive. On the other hand, it makes it easier to do it yourself since rotors don't need to be machined, and that can make up for the extra material cost. There are two main reasons for the switch to thinner rotors. Obviously reducing weight increases gas mileage, and the makers are doing everything they can to advertise a higher MPG rating than the competition. Secondly, the reduction in unsprung weight improves ride and handling.
    Last edited by dennisturner; 09-03-2019 at 09:58 AM.

 

 
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