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  1. #1
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    Question Is it safe to replace your PT1911 hammer?

    Has anyone straight up replaced their hammer? Sear? Any components on their PT1911 with out "gun smithing?"

    Is this practice safe? I ask because after looking at the insides of my PT 1911, I just don't know if I trust it. It looks like crap. (I posted these a few months ago)

    I'd really like to replace the hammer (the taurus hammer has that...THING) and the hammer strut (looks like garbage)

    Would you guys trust this? I almost want to trade it in for a 1911 from a more reputable company. (I've owned several taurus handguns and 3 of the 4 had something wrong, 2 of those had to return to factory for repairs right out of the box)

    Peace of mind is most definitely a necessity for a carry gun.




    I should get some pics of the random dents dug out of the inside of the slide randomly...
    Last edited by Schlitz; 09-07-2011 at 03:59 PM.

  2. #2
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    You can swap out anything on it you wanna its like any other 1911, it will require some stoning and fitting but not anything your average 1911 guy cant handle. I would keep it, if not send it to that A-TEAM guy im sure hed take it off your hands.
    "The fact is that the average man's love of liberty is nine-tenths imaginary, exactly like his love of sense, justice and truth. Liberty is not a thing for the great masses of men. It is the exclusive possession of a small and disreputable minority, like knowledge, courage and honor. It takes a special sort of man to understand and enjoy liberty and he is usually an outlaw in democratic societies." - H.L. Mencken, Baltimore Evening Sun, Feb. 12, 1923




  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by A-TEAM 513 View Post
    You can swap out anything on it you wanna its like any other 1911, it will require some stoning and fitting but not anything your average 1911 guy cant handle. I would keep it, if not send it to that A-TEAM guy im sure hed take it off your hands.
    Would you happen to be an average "1911 guy?"

    What tools would I need for stoning?

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    A hard arkansas stone and some small files, maybe a jig to make sure you get proper sear engagement at your half cocked and full cocked positions a small mallot and a punch set oughta do it. There are PLENTY of how to's and vids online and if your really interested youll be at it in no time.
    "The fact is that the average man's love of liberty is nine-tenths imaginary, exactly like his love of sense, justice and truth. Liberty is not a thing for the great masses of men. It is the exclusive possession of a small and disreputable minority, like knowledge, courage and honor. It takes a special sort of man to understand and enjoy liberty and he is usually an outlaw in democratic societies." - H.L. Mencken, Baltimore Evening Sun, Feb. 12, 1923




  5. #5
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    I don't want to seem lazy, for I know the powers of google, but being somewhat seasoned on 1911s could you point me towards a reasonably priced source for these tools?

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    midway and brownells both have an excellent selection of 1911 smithing tools and jigs and are reasonably priced.
    "The fact is that the average man's love of liberty is nine-tenths imaginary, exactly like his love of sense, justice and truth. Liberty is not a thing for the great masses of men. It is the exclusive possession of a small and disreputable minority, like knowledge, courage and honor. It takes a special sort of man to understand and enjoy liberty and he is usually an outlaw in democratic societies." - H.L. Mencken, Baltimore Evening Sun, Feb. 12, 1923




  7. #7
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    Harbor Freight for the hand tools.
    (1) 8oz. Dead-blow Rubber Mallet
    (1) Set of Brass and/or Plastic Drifts (Steel will mar the surfaces)
    (1) Set Large and Small Single and Double Bastard Files
    (1) Combination Coarse/Fine Knife Sharpening Stone

    Should run you about $30 total (just guessing I usually walk out of that place with 3-4 bags of goodies for <$50)

    With skill and practice you can knock the Mainspring Housing pin out while holding the Drift and frame in one hand and the Mallet in the other. (Handy when you break a Mainspring at the range)

    Midway and Brownells for the rest of the parts, jigs, etc.
    Last edited by blackspyder; 09-07-2011 at 08:36 PM.

  8. #8
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    well we all must set our own level of Acceptability on a gun, especially carry guns!
    but it seems that a lot of what I can see really has little to do with the function of the weapon.
    from tearing into a few 1911's (several Tauurs) i find that where the fit and finish really makes a difference they are put togther pretty well.
    and in areas that make no real difference in operation then they do not spend ime on it!
    thats why you get a semi custom 1911 for 600 bucks.
    to me its kind of like having a Porsche that has a tarnished hood ornament on it!
    it may not look real good but has little to any effect on its performance.
    IF the gun works as it should then thats the main thing.
    IF not then send it back to Taurus for repair.
    As for swapping out most any part on the Pt1911 as long as you are competent and do safety checks you can change out about anything, course if not then it might cost you a bit of money replacing/fitting the same part over and over.
    Last edited by olfarhors; 09-08-2011 at 11:21 AM.
    Retired Firefighter, Advanced Georgia Master Gardener, Hazardous Material Response Member, Certified Hazardous Material Incident Commander, 1911 Addict and General Gun Lover.
    Currently Professionally Retired Old Person.

  9. #9
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    I think anyone can replace the fire control group on their 1911. There are a multitude of web posts and You Tube videos on just what needs to be done. Keep in mind that true "drop-in" parts do not exist in the 1911 world, everything is going to require some fitting. Also realize that the hammer, sear, and disconnector, all interact with the thumb safety, grip safety, and trigger so if you are going to dabble in replacing your FCG you need an intimate understanding of the geometric relationship between these parts. As far as what parts to buy it depends on what you want to do. Cylinder and Slide sells pre-fitted, pre-stoned sets that will guarantee a specific trigger pull weight, these are available at MidwayUSA and are probably the easiest way to go remembering that some fitting will be required to your thumb safety and grip safety once installed. If you want to buy the parts separately I would recommend sticking with one manufacturer for everything, e.g. Wilson Combat. If the object of your quest is to eliminated MIM parts make sure you buy forged parts-why replace MIM with MIM? The parts you may want to replace are the hammer, hammer strut, hammer strut pin (don't try to salvage the old one), sear, and disconnector. To do the work your self you will need a sear jig (I recommend Ed Brown), a fine India Stone, and maybe some files but most of the work is done with a stone. I just did this on a RIA 1911 that I bought as a project gun and I was very happy with the results.
    PT1911B
    PT111 Pro
    PT738
    Ruger P95
    Beretta U22 Neos

  10. #10
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    In my experience using a Cylinder and Slide hammer set will drop in 90%+ of the time. A quality pin set will also help the percentages.


    1911 Hammer Sets

 

 
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