1911 Build

[67 Cuda]

I've got a question in regards to a custom 1911 build that has been racking my brain. When building a custom 1911, does the slide come drilled for a Series 80 firing pin block plunger or does it come without the hole for the plunger and the gunsmith is left to drill the hole if he desires a Series 80? I'm assuming the latter is the correct scenario, but I don't see a "Series 70" or "Series 80" option when shopping for slides for a 1911.

[dbeardslee]

Where are you looking at slides? Got a link?

Something else to think about - if you're going to select a slide and frame separately there's some fitting that needs to happen that's pretty important to accuracy. I went a little different route with mine - I bought a builder upper that already had the frame and slide nicely fitted and an excellent barrel. Then I added the sights and internals I wanted and fitted them. I wound up with a tack driving 1911 with a very smooth 3.5 lb trigger. Virtually every part on a 1911 requires fitting, so you can save yourself a lot of headaches going this route. JAT

[GreenWolf70]

There are Series 70 and Series 80 1911 slides. If you want to use a Series 70 slide on a Series 80 Frame, you would need to either convert the Series 70 slide or the Series 80 frame, so they are the same.

dbeardslee is correct about fitting the slide to the frame (which is not really that hard, just time consuming), the harder part is, however, fitting the barrel to the new slide. Two things I generally leave to a 1911 gunsmith is fitting the barrel group to the slide and fitting the trigger group. The trigger group I might try using one of those Cylinder & Slide trigger kits, but fitting the barrel is best left to the experts. JMHO

And don't forget Rule #1 of the 1911: "There is no such thing as drop-in parts for a 1911."

[67 Cuda]

I understand that every single part will require fitting, hence why I'm doing this project. I loved doing all of the work on my PT1911. I had so much fun replacing almost every part that I decided I wanted to do a custom build. I was thinking of trying to stay with the same manufacturer between frame and slide (i.e. Caspian frame and Caspian slide, STI frame and STI slide, etc.). I plan on taking the gun to a gunsmith for a few of the parts (such as barrel fitting, installing ejector, etc.). I did the trigger group on my PT1911 and I feel pretty confident about that, but the rest I want to do on my own.

Do you guys have suggestions for where to buy a good slide/frame combination? I desire to go the series 70 route.

drbeardslee, I could definitely see myself going that route. I have been spec'ing out the internals that I desire, but haven't found a slide, frame, or barrel that I'd like as of yet. Do you have any links? I want to go the stainless route.

[dbeardslee]

I used a Para GI Expert in Stainless. I replaced the sear, mainspring and housing, trigger, sear spring, recoil spring and guide rod, and the grip panels. I wanted a shooter that I could carry if the mood hit me, and personally I like the original controls - less likely to snag. The Para has excellent slide to frame fit, as well as a really nice stainless steel barrel with an 11 degree crown. I didn't want a match grade barrel 'cause I don't shoot match ammo. Anyway I did quite a bit of polishing on the internals, and I'm really pleased with the way it turned out. Here's some pics -

[GreenWolf70]

If I were you I would start building a library of resources on building a 1911. A Jerry Kuhnhausen Shop Manual is a good place to start. Then you can probably get videos from Brownells, it should be a free download. Then cut & paste in the gunsmithing forums on M1911.org. That should give you a good set of resources before you start.

Actually, I don't think matching frame and slide manufacturers makes any difference. What you want is a tight fit between frame and slide, even too tight is better than loose. Otherwise you are buying more tools to tighten that fit up. With a very tight fit, you can then lap the frame and slide. There are a number of threads on doing this over at M1911.org. Look to buy frames and slides with the mods you want already completed. Do pay attention to the cuts for the sights on the slide and make sure the sights you get will fit the sight cuts on your slide. Novak cut dovetails are probably the easiest sights to find and also the most common sight cuts on bare slides. If you get a slide without sight cuts, it will require machining, and if it is not done exactly right it can ruin your slide.  Much cheaper in the long run to get a slide that comes with the sight cuts, ejection port lowered and scalloped, front serrations, etc. IMO. And make sure your frame is already cut for the type of beavertail you want to put on it.  A friend of mine who was in the industry, told me of a not well known place where you can find discounted Caspian frames and slides, http://www.fosterind.com/index.php

For a barrel, I would suggest the Kart Easy Fit Barrel Kit. There is excellent documentation with it, it comes with all the necessary tools, it would be the easiest of the 1911 barrels to correctly fit (without gunsmith help), has an excellent reputation for accuracy, and I think you will find plenty of online help if you run into trouble. 

Take a closer look at the ejector and I think you may find it is not as hard to install as you think. Also, many frames can be bought with the ejector and plunger tube already installed.

I think we talked before about EGW. I like them because their parts are built overspec'd/oversized and will always fit correctly after fitting. I would suggest at least using their oversized firing pin stop, HD extractor, and angle bored bushing (easier to fit). And I would suggest one of Cylinder  & Slide's trigger pull kits, so you don't have to worry about stoning, polishing and getting the relief angles correct on your trigger group. I think you got lucky before, when a trigger job goes bad, it goes really (unsafe) bad and it's still cheaper to use a C&S kit than buying the parts and taking them to a smith. The rest of the stuff is really personal taste, just look through the different brands until you find the look you want and then make sure it will work in your 1911 frame/slide. Oversized you can fit, undersized is usually a lost cause. You may want to use the old parts left over from your PT-1911 mods, or even parts off your PT-1911 to check fit before you order. You are really looking at the style of the part, like with the trigger bow (is it old style solid, or new style lightweight cutaway bow) to determine likelihood of fitting as the frame may be made to better fit one style over another.

Finally, there is Rule #2 of the 1911, which you really need to follow in building a 1911: Work on the cheapest part first, in other words, don't start grinding on the frame to make the main spring housing fit.

One question, do you build your cars by starting with just a frame and body, or a whole car? Most custom 1911 builders will tell you that it is better to bring them a complete pistol to begin a custom build, than just a frame and slide. 

Good luck and I look forward to seeing photos as your build progresses.

 

[67 Cuda]

Man I love you guys. This place is awesome.

FORTUNATELY I've done a good bit of research and a lot of the stuff you're suggesting I've done already when I was doing the work on my PT1911 (Kuhnhausen shop manual, for example). I've already decided I want the Novak sights. I don't care for the Bo-Mar sights, which are pretty popular. Thank you very much for the barrel recommendation! When I get to the ejector, I'll look more closely into it. First, I want to be able to find a slide and frame, though. I've completely disassembled and worked on every part in my PT1911, including replacing the majority of them. I'm most definitely getting the C&S trigger kit. I put that on my PT1911 and loved it. I'm sold on that. I've already been specifying, and purchasing, the majority of my parts. I have almost everything except the frame and slide purchased. I've been doing as much research as possible. I just could not find my answer to the series 70/80 slide question.

[GreenWolf70]

It's probably a lot easier to find and build a Series 70 than a Series 80, and quite frankly, I'm not sure why you would want a Series 80 since most of that stuff is CYA against litigation anyway. JMHO

[67 Cuda]

Okay, I still don't know the answer to my original question though. Here are some of the slides I was looking at from Caspian (that are beautiful):

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=2...11_AUTO_SLIDES

Nowhere do they say series 70, 80, or give any indication.

[stallard]

Okay, I still don't know the answer to my original question though. Here are some of the slides I was looking at from Caspian (that are beautiful):

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=2...11_AUTO_SLIDES

Nowhere do they say series 70, 80, or give any indication.

It indeed does not specify but I know from first hand experience that all Caspian slides are 70' series. They do offer 80' series cut as an option for $22.77.
For verification check out the questions and answers on part #168-000-073 (Carbon Steel, Novak Sight Cut, .45 ACP) or email Caspian.