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  1. #1
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    Small Frame Spring Replacement Observation

    I realize the subject of hammer and trigger spring replacement appears all over the forum here in various places. There may even be a thread dedicated to that, but I am a newbie to the forum and actually a newbie to tearing into revolvers. I have been away from guns for a long time making a living at a job...raising a family and all the rest. I have jumped back into Taurus resolvers full-bore now that I am retired. I have probably fired more rounds in the last month than I have in the last 20-years. I have also dragged my wife along with me, because I want her to be interested in self-defense and have a weapon she can comfortably fire. We both have carry permits.

    I know many of you pros and long-time subscribers know all about this, but it may help some newbies get straight to the issue without poking-around on the forum.

    I have changed the hammer springs in three of my Taurus revolvers without any issue at all. I installed the Wolff 9-pound in my 327 and 85UL. They have been test fired and have performed flawlessly. I have replaced the hammer spring in my 941 with the stock 327 hammer spring, which I believe to be 11-pounds. It too has performed and fired every time I pull the trigger and is MUCH easier on the finger and the thumb.

    Here comes the rub that many of you know about already. Neither the reduced 9-pound or 6.5-pound Wolff reduced trigger spring will work in any of my three revolvers "right out of the pack". These trigger springs coil-bind before the action will fully cycle. Wolff post a disclaimer very clearly explaining that modifications may be necessary. That apparent modification would be the removal of some coils from the trigger springs. And yes...I have read this mentioned on other threads...this is just a recap. They will almost work, but not quite.

    Here is my point. I see no need to order the spring "kit" as the trigger springs will not work. I would order just the reduced hammer spring and then modify my stock trigger spring if desired. Why purchase new trigger springs if you have to grind them up to make one work. Just adjust your stock trigger spring if desired. Just replacing the hammer spring in both my center-fires has made lots of difference and now the wife can go DA on either the 327 or the 85.

  2. #2
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    Re: Small Frame Spring Replacement Observation

    I just picked up a 327, so I might hit you up for some info on re springs.

  3. #3
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    Re: Small Frame Spring Replacement Observation

    Piece of cake....no special tools required. All you need is the spring, a screwdriver and maybe a little help from the wife to stick the straight-pin in a hole while you have the new spring compressed over the strut. If you have a weak/small handed person in the family. they will really appreciate the difference in TP. I had to do something instead of watching the wife double-finger pull the trigger with her eyes squinted. Now....she thinks she's John Wayne.

  4. #4
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    Re: Small Frame Spring Replacement Observation

    I've purchased the 327 and notice that the trigger pull is pretty stout. I'd like to lighten it up a bit. Since I'm not familiar with adjusting the trigger spring, could you go into greater detail? I know how to disassemble and reassemble the Taurus revolvers, so this isn't a problem.
    I assume you refer to removing a couple of coils from the trigger spring--if so, how many coils would you remove? What procedure do you use to do this?
    Your help is greatly appreciated!!
    brw1249

  5. #5
    Senior Member
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    Re: Small Frame Spring Replacement Observation

    Don't fool with the trigger spring.....yet. It's a hard little buggar to change. I would do this first. Go to the Wolff web page and you can order a Reduced Pull Kit for the small frame Taurus revolver for like $11 or so plus shipping. In that kit is a 9-pound hammer spring and two different trigger springs (6.5 and 9). The reduced pull trigger springs will not work and would have to be trimmed a bit. They coil-bind and block the action in the small frames. You will have these trigger springs handy if you decide to modify and change them.

    The installation of the hammer spring is very easy and is detailed in the pictorial guide here on the forum. With the side-plate removed, just half cock the hammer and stick a straight-pin in the hole through the lower end of the strut as it moves down into the frame....ease off the hammer and then you can remove the strut with the spring attached. I place the hammer end of the strut on a block of wood and use a set of needle-nose pliers to straddle the strut, compress the keeper, remove the straight pin and then let it all "relax" off the strut. Just reverse the procedure to install the new spring. place the spring over the strut, the keeper over the spring and compress it all down to a point that you (or your wife) can stick the straight-pin back in the hole in the strut and release it. Stick the strut with the spring, keeper and straight-pin back in the gun and line it all up. Pull the hammer back enough to relax the spring so you can remove the straight-pin....let the hammer down and your done. Just make sure the keeper is in it's proper position in the slot down in the grip section of the frame.

    Just the installation of the reduced-pull 9-pound hammer spring worked wonders for the overall pull. My wife can safely DA the weapon and I have had zero FTF issues.

    You could by-pass the purchase of the Wolff springs and cut some coils off the stock hammer spring, but I do not know how much is too much, because every gun seems to have a mind of it's on and what works for Jack may not work for Jill. It would be a trial-and-error situation and you may cut too much off and then have to purchase another spring. IMHO, best thing to do is just get the Wolff 9-pound hammer spring.

 

 

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