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  1. #1
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    PT 92 Trigger job?

    I have about 1,000 rounds through by PT 92 and the trigger just does not seem to be getting any smoother. I have not checked the trigger pull weight, but it seems heavy to me. Has anyone had a trigger job done on a 92? If so, was the improvement worth it?

  2. #2
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    Re: PT 92 Trigger job?

    not really a trigger job but put a beretta 92D hammer spring in mine.. it did make the SA noticbily lighter.. about 250 rounds later it is lighter still.. DA did'nt notice much change.

    although never tested it it's been discussed and generally agreed that taurus factory hammer springs are lighter then beretta springs.. but the "D" spring seems to be a little lighter still..

    it cost me like 4 bucks plus shipping for the spring.. the newer guns have a internal safety lock which can be quite nerve racking to reinstall.. but other then that it is a simple operation.

    i am happy with the change even though it is not as dramatic on a taurus as it is on a beretta it's still a cheap little mod you can safely do with a set of punches, a small hammer, and some free time.
    If you can't shoot well, shoot often.

  3. #3
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    Re: PT 92 Trigger job?

    I was going to suggest that as well. I installed a 'D' spring on my 92FS and I have to sy SA pull didn't change that much but DA trigger became noticeably ligher...
    Go your way now, go with God, bag full of guns…

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  4. #4
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    Re: PT 92 Trigger job?

    There is a nice write up for Beretta's here. The Taurus will be almost the same so this is a good guide.
    http://www.berettaforum.net/vb/showt...polish+trigger
    That along with a D spring really helped my Beretta. I just got a Wolff hammer spring for my Taurus and will be doing a trigger job on that too here probably next weekend if I have time.

  5. #5
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    Re: PT 92 Trigger job?

    Well I just did my shade tree trigger job and it turned out quite well I think. My PT92 has already had quite a few thousand rounds through it so it was already smoothed out some. I didn't polish all contact surfaces on this trigger job like I did on my Beretta.

    I polished the sides of the sear and hammer but I don't know if it helped any as there weren't many wear marks so I'm guessing there is very little friction there. I was going to polish the non-exposed side of the trigger bar where it might rub against the frame but again there no wear marks so I didn't. I did square up the single action hooks on the hammer which was already pretty good so probably not needed. I did not lower the hook height or anything though. I polished the part of the sear which is responsible for the SA pull. I also added a very slight secondary angle to the sear face (1911 guys will know what I'm talking about). I also have already installed a Wolff 16lb. hammer spring.

    The differences are definitely noticeable. Well worth my time I think which was about an hour or two including complete assembly/disassembly. SA is now crisp and light. No grittiness or creep when compared to the stock setup and breaks like the proverbial glass rod. DA was already pretty good to begin with but I can tell it is a little smoother. Might have been from all the carbon I cleaned out from around the hammer bushing and safety pin as it took about 5 hoppe's soaked q-tips just to get the bushing clean. After reassembly I did a safety function test and all is well. I've done similar trigger jobs on every gun I own except my AR and all have functioned 100% (my Ruger P345 turned out extremely well). But as with everything else in this lawyer-happy country, do at your own risk. The key is to not take off too much and maintain all angles. When you shoot it for the first time only load a few rounds in the mag just in case you screwed up and you get hammer follow.

    Also in the link I gave above to the berettaforum trigger job thread recommends 600 grit sandpaper and a knife sharpening stone. IMHO this is a little too aggressive if you are doing it for the first time and I like to use 2000 grit wet with oil and a X-Fine ceramic stone. Takes a little longer but you're less likely to remove too much. You don't need it to shine like a mirror but it will feel like one when you rub your finger across it.

  6. #6
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    Re: PT 92 Trigger job?

    I am geting ready to do this. I am ordering the springs from wolff tomorrow. I have managed to get everything apart except the hammer and sear. It looks as though the safety has to be romoved. I have an older PT92c (compact) without decocker function. The safety is mounted on the frame. The only way I see to get the safety off is to remove a roll pin on the left hand lever. Is this the proper way to remove the hammer and sear. The beretta video guide differs at this point because the safety is on the slide. I couldn't find anything to show how to get the sear and hammer out for the Taurus.

    Also, anyone know where to get grips for this thing?

  7. #7
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    Re: PT 92 Trigger job?

    Way to bring up a year old thread...I am also interested, as Im thinking about doing this if the "D" spring dont make me happy.

  8. #8
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    Re: PT 92 Trigger job?

    Just took mine apart here at work. Yes you have to drift the small roll pin out of the left side safety lever. Once it is out you can pull apart the ambi safety. Once that is out, there is a bushing holding the hammer in. Slip out the bushing and out comes the hammer. Be carefull as there is a small pin and spring under the left side safety lever. Removing the sear is the same as in the beretta pictorial. Now all I have to do is polish the rough areas up and change springs. I ordered the Wolff hammer spring pack which has one each 16# and 17# reduced power springs. I did not order the new style trigger spring as I was told the hammer spring is most of the trigger pull.

    Now to find grips.

  9. #9
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    Re: PT 92 Trigger job?

    For real Mr. McGavin, you should post some pics, with detailed writes up. And have it stickified. I would pray to you if you did that.

  10. #10
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    Re: PT 92 Trigger job?

    everything is here. http://www.beretta92fs.com/

    The only thing that differs is how to remove the hammer. The sear is the same. On the Taurus you have to remove the safety as descibed above. The hardest part is finding a small enough punch to drift the roll pin out. Don't push it all the way out. Just enough to clear the shaft. This will make it much easier to reassemble. Also the pin in the base of the handle tha needs to be roved to get the hammer/main spring out is different. In the Beretta video, he shows pushing in on the lanyard loop and pressing the pin easily out. Not the case with my Taurus. Mine had a roll pin that had to be punched out with a drift. The Beretta uses a solid pin held in place by the grips and spring pressure. The Taurus comes out the same way but needs a punch and hamer to get out. Once again don't press it completely out. Just enough to drop the spring.

    As far as polishing, I just cleaned up the rough spots on the Hammer where the sear makes contact. I also sanded all the holes and pinns that the trigger and hammer pivot on. Anything that is involved in the trigger to hammer connection got polished and had Miltec applied.

    Mike

 

 
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