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Author Topic: Keeping Parkerized looking nice 8)  (Read 392 times)
texas red
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« on: October 11, 2009, 08:18:25 PM »

I recently was given a BRAND NEW Springfield Armory 1911 A1 Mil Spec.  I have been wanting a 1911 for a long time. When i had the money i was going to buy a Taurus (mainly bc im a lefty and wanted the ambi safety)----but hey who wouldnt want a Springfield as a gift!

Anyway it is parkerized and it seems like it is going to scuff and scratch really easy and have that "dull" parkerized look.  Any ideas on how to keep the scuffs off and possibly brighten it up a bit?

Thanks
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chicharrones
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« Reply #1 on: October 11, 2009, 10:20:47 PM »

It sure shows scratches easily. I've got one old parkerized Beretta that has reached an even wear of scuffs and doesn't look too bad. The bummer is the in between new look and worn look, the scratches and scuffs are glaringly bad.

Another parkerized Beretta I have will scratch in the hard case it came in. I wrap a bandana around it to keep the scuffs away while in the case. I really don't know what to do about keeping a parkerized gun lookin' new except to not use it.
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45 Forever
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« Reply #2 on: October 11, 2009, 11:10:42 PM »

My buddy bought a Rock Island 1911 and I racked the slide and scratched the top with my wedding ring you have to be careful.
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texas red
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« Reply #3 on: October 11, 2009, 11:37:39 PM »

yeah my left hand is on the grip so i have a nice wear mark after only 40 rds from my wedding ring
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Majorlk
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« Reply #4 on: October 12, 2009, 08:41:45 AM »

Keep it in the safe and never shoot it. Smiley

Any gun that doesn't not have one of the rock-hard finishes is going eventually get scratches, rub marks, the finish worn down, etc. That's part of carrying and shooting them. If the thought really bothers you, have the gun refinished with one of the hard finishes.

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texas red
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« Reply #5 on: October 12, 2009, 10:46:31 AM »

would duracote be considered one of the harder finishes that I could go with.  I like the black color so i guess if duracote could be done right over the top of the parkerized that might work.
If i do that i would probably wait until the scuffs got worse
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Majorlk
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« Reply #6 on: October 12, 2009, 03:28:56 PM »

would duracote be considered one of the harder finishes that I could go with.  I like the black color so i guess if duracote could be done right over the top of the parkerized that might work.
If i do that i would probably wait until the scuffs got worse

From their advertising, I would presume so. Supposedly the only way to remove DuraKote is to sandblast it off. As for putting it over parkerizing, I don't know if that finish has to be removed and/or the frame polished beforehand or not. DuraKote can tell you for sure.
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An armed society is a polite society. Manners are good when one may have to back up his acts with his life. - Robert A. Heinlein
ptaker
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« Reply #7 on: October 16, 2009, 07:35:53 PM »

on a lighter note scuffs,scratches,and what have u are like reminders in life,like i remember when this scratch happened it was when that full mag i dumped into that grizzly didn't even phase him,so i said the heck with this and DROPPED it(thought it would make me lighter to out run the grizzly)all worked out i got away. but the scuffs are from the time that the grizzly found my gun and tried to destroy it because of the scent on it(by the way might be #1 or #2 or both didnt stop and check lol) but next week i found my shooter in a dumpster that the grizzly frequents it had a note that said next time leave me a pooper scooper lol (by the way this whole story is bs lol)
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tex45acp
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« Reply #8 on: October 17, 2009, 07:04:09 AM »

I recently was given a BRAND NEW Springfield Armory 1911 A1 Mil Spec.  I have been wanting a 1911 for a long time. When i had the money i was going to buy a Taurus (mainly bc im a lefty and wanted the ambi safety)----but hey who wouldnt want a Springfield as a gift!

Anyway it is parkerized and it seems like it is going to scuff and scratch really easy and have that "dull" parkerized look.  Any ideas on how to keep the scuffs off and possibly brighten it up a bit?

Thanks

texas red link,

Parkerizing loves gun oil!!! It drinks it up. What I did with my parkerized 1911 was to lay it in the sun for about an hour, unloaded of course, then take a gun oil soaked rag and just wipe all the exposed surfaces, and dont be gentle either. I then lay it back in the sun for a bit longer to allow the lube to really soak in. Did that to mine for years and it looked as good the day I bought it as when I sold it.

This was that gun and in this picture the gun is about 3 years old ahd had been in and out of a leather holster more times than I can remember.

tex45acp


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chicharrones
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« Reply #9 on: October 17, 2009, 09:42:35 AM »

Now that would be a heck of a story, ptaker! Tongue
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chicharrones
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« Reply #10 on: October 17, 2009, 09:43:33 AM »

I oil my "parkerized" guns too, Tex45acp. I just never thought about the warming up process. Interesting.
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mp3mogul
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« Reply #11 on: October 17, 2009, 03:01:51 PM »

I oil mine as well... seems to always do the trick.
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texas red
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« Reply #12 on: October 18, 2009, 08:34:15 PM »

thanks for the advice...ive oiled it thoroughly but i still need to do the heating up process before hand.  I read about that elsewhere how it makes the metal expand to get the oil into the pores better.

Thanks!
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GreenWolf70
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« Reply #13 on: November 03, 2009, 08:48:55 AM »

For the Duracoat questions, a parked finish is the best base for any Duracoat finish. If you have a scratch or other damage that would show through, you would need to polish it out and then blast and/or park for the most durable adhesion set for Duracoat. However, you can use Duracoat without blasting or parking but it will just not be as durable. Lauer makes a easy park kit just for use as a base for Duracoat. I finished a stainless steel 1911 by applying Duracoat over just a blasted base and it has been very durable. Just make sure you degrease very, very well. 

If you just want to keep the parked finish pristine, try the Duracoat flat Clearcoat finish. This works for blue finishes too. Clearcoat comes in flat, satin and gloss. The Clearcoat will protect your parked or blued finish from scratches and wear.

If you know your way around an airbrush, you can achieve some amazing things with Duracoat.

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Jake3501
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« Reply #14 on: November 03, 2009, 09:08:27 AM »

If you want a  presentation piece then get a glass topped presentation case to display it in, and keep a pair of white cloth gloves for your friends to put on should they want to handle it.  I have a friend who paid $5,000 for a Gold Plated Thompson, which I have put on the white gloves to handle it, The bolt is fixed so it can't be opened or closed, and I decided the gun is pretty much useless.....oh and he keeps it in the gun safe and has never told his wife he has it or what he paid for it.  Should have bought an expensive Vase!  Anyhow I don't like putting a ding or a scuff on anything, but if it is gonna see use, things will happen, and finishes will wear.
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