Sorry For the lack of pics right now. But I was at the range earlier today and about 50 rounds in I noticed the pin that comes down through the top near the loaded chamber indicator was loose and coming out. I am able to push it in and out by hand and that doesn't seem good. The pistol is a 24/7 oss .45 in stainless. I was just wondering if anyone else had this happen. I will try to post pics tomorrow.
I noticed the pin that comes down through the top near the loaded chamber indicator was loose and coming out. I am able to push it in and out by hand and that doesn't seem good.
I have the exact same problem with my PT145. I put a dab of Loctite on it and let it set for a few days. Took it to the range and put 150 rounds thru it without it moving again. Seems to have fixed/helped but still thinking about sending to Miami.
Spoke to the Taurus rep on the phone earlier today. He told me it is fairly common and is caused by over oiling he instructed me to quit using CLP. Clean it with a good solvent and then apply a few drops of oil to the firing pin area. and to stay away from spray lubes.
The only thing that bothers me about what he told you is that there are interference ribs at the top of the pin. This should take a fair amount of pressure to move this. Not saying bad advice but keep your eye on it.
Sorry, but I think the Taurus Rep is full of.............shaving cream.
What I have done on pins when I could not get another one properly sized would be to get the Pin exposed a bit, degrease with gunscrubber equivalent or acetone, allow to dry, put a dab of super glue on the exposed pin, allow to dry, then drive it back down in.
I still think it need to be properly repaired. You may need to have a slightly over-sized pin installed if the Slide Hole is over-sized or the Pin itself is undersized. My opinion, FWIW.
The Taurus rep is full of something. I completely disassembled the pistol last night, firing pin and all. (No idea why Taurus says you need a gunsmith to do this.) The splines that are supposed to hold the pin tight are all smashed flat. It is like the stainless slide is harder than the pin, and has flattened the splines that are supposed to hold it. On top of it all the pin is bent. So now the question is send it back and wait, or order a new pin and fix it myself.
If it was me I would just order a new pin and do it myself. Not need to send it back and wait for a fix. Be warned though, when mine came out, I lost my Loaded Chamber Indicator spring. Ordered one from them. Only took, no sh*t, 3 months!
I caught mine before I lost ant parts. I spoke with another rep yesterday they are just going to fed-ex me the pin free since it is so new. So I give customer service an A+.
First time I've ever heard of someone saying do not use CLP! It sounds ridiculous. If a pin comes out that easy the hole is either too big for the pin or vice versa. These roll pins are placed with a brass punch and hammer.
Not too many lubricants better than CLP. There are a lot of lubricants out there but CLP is at/near the top.
Only time I've ever seen a role pin work its way out was when another armorer re-used a role pin because he didn't have a spare one available and that may be what they did with your gun at the factory, reused an old one accidentally.
Over oiling can mess up your gun, the rep may have been right about that. I usually use regular gun lube, then use the green toothbrush with the lube just like you would tooth-paste to get all the carbon out of the nukes and crannies. Then I use cotton ear cleaners in all the corners, I don't use anything inside the barrel, just regular rifle cleaning pads. After all this is done I wipe the parts completely with a dry cloth, I make sure I got as much oil off as possible, then I stick my pinky in all the holes, if the pinky is clean, that means the gun is clean.
First time I've ever heard of someone saying do not use CLP! It sounds ridiculous. If a pin comes out that easy the hole is either too big for the pin or vice versa. These roll pins are placed with a brass punch and hammer.
Not too many lubricants better than CLP. There are a lot of lubricants out there but CLP is at/near the top.
Only time I've ever seen a role pin work its way out was when another armorer re-used a role pin because he didn't have a spare one available and that may be what they did with your gun at the factory, reused an old one accidentally.
See my comments in my second post on this thread. We are in some agreement on most things.
However, while I have seen Roll Pins used as Extractor Retention Pins on other makes, that is not the case with the 24/7. The 24/7 and all the other Tauri Semi-Auto's that I have seen, have Solid Pins that retain their Extractors. The 24/7 in question can be fixed by either a larger or correct pin, depending upon the size of the Slide Extractor Retention Pin hole.
A correctly sized Roll Pin certainly could also be used to repair this pistol, but it is not the designed in part and may not withstand the force of the Extractor Spring for the designed lifespan. That said, I've never had a Roll Pin break and I think it would do for a repair in a pinch.
See my comments in my second post on this thread. We are in some agreement on most things.
However, while I have seen Roll Pins used as Extractor Retention Pins on other makes, that is not the case with the 24/7. The 24/7 and all the other Tauri Semi-Auto's that I have seen, have Solid Pins that retain their Extractors. The 24/7 in question can be fixed by either a larger or correct pin, depending upon the size of the Slide Extractor Retention Pin hole.
A correctly sized Roll Pin certainly could also be used to repair this pistol, but it is not the designed in part and may not withstand the force of the Extractor Spring for the designed lifespan. That said, I've never had a Roll Pin break and I think it would do for a repair in a pinch.
You are correct I have not seen a roll pin used for the extractor either but instead a solid pin. My wife corrects me all the time that I will not think when I talk and often call multiple people the same name but she has gotten used to it as she understands what I mean.
I don't expect others to know my quirkiness so I appreciate you keeping me on track.
I also agree with Long_Shot over oiling can and does lead to problems not to mention oiling up your shooting glasses if used in excess, but to call out CLP is a mistake in my opinion. No I do not have stock in CLP.
Over oiling can mess up your gun, the rep may have been right about that. I usually use regular gun lube, then use the green toothbrush with the lube just like you would tooth-paste to get all the carbon out of the nukes and crannies. Then I use cotton ear cleaners in all the corners, I don't use anything inside the barrel, just regular rifle cleaning pads. After all this is done I wipe the parts completely with a dry cloth, I make sure I got as much oil off as possible, then I stick my pinky in all the holes, if the pinky is clean, that means the gun is clean.
Newbie here, so excuse what might be a stupid question... I can over oil the gun? Define over oiling, please. Should I be wiping it down after oiling? *looks over at his Pro DS .40 that was just cleaned and oiled and wondering if he should take it apart and dry it more*
According to this forum we are both in the "Newbie" Club! No such thing as a stupid question here, feel free to ask to your hearts desire. When I say "Over Oiling" I was thinking worse case scenario: Someone who thinks oil is a preservative for their gun. They take the gun and every once and while add oil, but don't clean it first to remove the old oil. After years and years without cleaning, just oiling, the gun will start to fall apart. I try to keep as much oil off my gun as possible, instead I clean it every so often even if I haven't used it with fresh oil.
To me to over oil a gun if you can leave fingerprints easily; it is over oiled. Smudges are different than fingerprints. I always wipe them down with another cloth after the first cleaning
Antique guns usually survived because they never received little if any oil. When they seized up on the original owners, they became paper-weights. If the gun has rust from age, and it has seized up because of accumulated dirt and grim, it can easily be fixed by a professional.
The Taurus rep is full of something. I completely disassembled the pistol last night, firing pin and all. (No idea why Taurus says you need a gunsmith to do this.) The splines that are supposed to hold the pin tight are all smashed flat. It is like the stainless slide is harder than the pin, and has flattened the splines that are supposed to hold it. On top of it all the pin is bent. So now the question is send it back and wait, or order a new pin and fix it myself.
After what they did to my new 941, do it your self.
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