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New 24/7 PRO DS .40 owner

3K views 27 replies 10 participants last post by  socket462 
#1 ·
This is my very first post!!!
I just bought my first pistol (have long guns, but this is my first short). I haven't fired it yet- the range isn't open on Sundays...ergg.

I have field stripped the brand new 24/7 and found lots of grease inside the slide.. my question is- should I clean out that grease and re-oil before firing, or can I leave that in until my first true breakdown and clean (after putting a few dozen or more rounds thoug it)??

Or does it even matter either way?

Thanks!
 
#4 ·
Welcome aboard! I just wiped the "excessive" out of my 24/7 with the pharm. grade qtips. Breakfree'd the friction points. And 300 rounds down the tube, not one FT..anything. Saved the major cleaning for afterwards. :D
 
#5 ·
Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your new 24/7!

I have 24/7 OSS DS .45 and a 24/7 PRO C DS .45, and I deep cleaned them before ever firing a shot.
 
#7 ·
When I brought my 24/7 home, I field stripped it and cleaned everything out but the grease from the factory. After shooting the gun and taking it apart again, I realized it was an error because that stuff really attracts crap like crazy. I ended up using a dental pick to get gunk out of many areas. Also, I found hidden underneath it all quite a few imperfections in the casting. The advice posted here is good and I wish I had asked about it myself.
 
#8 ·
I clean any firearm and inspect it before running a single round down the barrel.
so far never a single problem, ad it helps you to better understand the functuion and opertaion of the weapon.
Breakfree is our friend!
 
#9 ·
Speaking of breakfree, I use Hobbes no. 9 and remoil. Should I switch to breakfree? I have looked up comparisons but have not found anything definitive. A CLP such as Breakfree is an attractive option however. Oh, and as for the rails, I have read that its better to use a slide grease on them but it seems most people just use their gun oil in those areas. Any thoughts?
 
#10 ·
I don't think that Breakfree is "corrosive?" as Hopes #9, and certainly not needed to be used in a "well ventilated area".
25 yrs. ago, during my military service, Breakfree was the only thing issued to us for cleaning and lubricating our weapons. Couldn't tell you if that is still the case.

...and with in the last 6 months..Winchester now has the exclusive rights to the Breakfree name??
 
#11 ·
the main ingredient in Hoppes #9 is kerosene if I remember correctly, so its a combustable but not really corrosive as kerosene is basically an oil.
(actually number 1 diesel fuel.)
breakfree CLP is a multi use prodcuct
C= clean L=lubricate p= protects.
I prefer to use a grease designed for fireamrs on the slides/rails of my semi auto weapons as it is slicker, stays in place and lasts longer than an oil for me.
 
#13 ·
I use Tetra grease personally but mostly because its the easiest to find in my parts , there are several other brands "like shooters choice" that are just as good!
just find one thats designed for use in firearms and is available in your area.
just a small amount added to the rails and then rub it along them with a Q-tip or such, work the action a few times and you are good to go.
when cleaning the weapon pay attention to those areas and remove any old grease.
as mentioned it tends to stay in place better than oils.
 
#14 ·
I've been learning from the old pros here. I also researched lubricants for slipperiness and load-bearing to find the best for a rapidly moving slide. What I had handy was a tube of white lithium grease from Sears, Hoppe's and Remoil. The lithium has preserved a BB gun through 10,000 rounds so I use it on the slide rails. Either of the oils elsewhere except in the striker area which is very clean or touched with a tiny puff of graphite.

The fall-back position is what it says in the manual. Oil the named places and go enjoy.

I'm not the wisest. Listen to the old guys.
 
#18 ·
Rackham said:
Ok so what I jus read was not to use oil in the in the striker area? this includes the rear of the assembly with the springs and such?
A subject of much controversy. YMMV

I very lightly oil mine with Mobil 1 10w30 and yes the rear of the assembly should be oiled.

But I also clean the Firing Pin/Striker Area/Assembly by flushing that area with a Polymer Safe Spray Cleaner EVERY time I clean the pistol, then re-oil. It's ALWAYS worked for me.
 
#20 ·
socket462 said:
So its not recommended to just use a can of CLP Winchester to clean and oil the entire gun?
CLP Winchester??? If this is a Teflon Oil Based CLP like that which was used from the Vietnam Era forward, that stuff is okay and as far as I know won't hurt Polymer Parts. If you are talking about the Gunscrubber Equivalent that is marketed by Winchester, which is no CLP, then probably not, unless the can/container says it's Polymer Safe. I've not seen any Winchester brand CLP type product for sale, but that does not mean there isn't one.

Note: CLP = Clean, Lubricate, Protect
 
#22 ·
usually what I have done is use some hobbes in that area and then blow it out with an air gun then spray a little bit of remoil and blow it out again a little bit. It seems to leave a nice thin coat on everything in there but I am all for learning best practices.
 
#23 ·
I tried a can of the Winchester equivilent to Gunscrubber cleaner.
I found it to be much stronger and while i saw no obvious problems with the poly frames or other parts I used up that can and quickly returned to Gunscrubber poly safe for all my pistols.
The Winchestr will take paint off sights and such very quickly.
OF course after the first really good cleaning I only use the gunscrubber for the places that i can not rech with normal cleaning products/ procedures, like the firing pin, channel, trigger assembly, etc.
 
#24 ·
socket462 said:
It would have helped if i read the can label.. its Break free CLP. My bad. The winchester stuff is break free.
Break Free CLP should be okay on Polymer. Usually comes in a Polymer Bottle.
 
#25 ·
bre346 said:
I've been learning from the old pros here. I also researched lubricants for slipperiness and load-bearing to find the best for a rapidly moving slide. What I had handy was a tube of white lithium grease from Sears, Hoppe's and Remoil. The lithium has preserved a BB gun through 10,000 rounds so I use it on the slide rails. Either of the oils elsewhere except in the striker area which is very clean or touched with a tiny puff of graphite.
The lubriplate white lithium is what we were issued with the M14 that I carried in Vietnam, and for that reason, that is what I like now.
 
#26 ·
I believe that Lubri plate is a brand name and that it comes in many different configurations depending on its intended use, all of it is not created equal.
I would suggest checking the label for use before using on a weapon.
We used it on certain fire equipment(nozzles, distributors,etc) and it was a Lubri plate that was designed to resist water and still provide a bit of long term lubrication.
 
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